E85 ranges from 100-105 octane
my vette is 10.5:1 with 8psi = good times 
8psi over 346cube inches is different than his little v6, i would say that there is more quality parts in an ls6 than in his nissan
you’d be suprised.
maybe, but the fact is that an ls6 will handle 8 psi a lot better than his 3.slow or whatever is in there, especially with a high compression engine
Not about pressure.Its about cfm
8 psi, is 8 psi. no matter how you cut it, its still the same pressure. the V8 makes more power from the same boost because it fills more area…, as long as its 8psi from something t25/t28 hell be safe, 8psi from a gt35 is asking for trouble. i know 10:1 builds running 25psi. its all in the tuning and the chosen fuel… im not saying his bottom end will take the boost from a larger set of twins or at all. but 8psi is very doable on a 10:1 motor.
now about pressure vs volume.
weve discussed this in another thread. 20psi from say a T25 vs 20psi from a GT35R. the GT35R will have atleast twice the volume at 20psi compared to a T25 at 20psi.
Its about how much air is actually being pushed. Pressure has no relevance in the statement of an ls6 vs a 3.0 v6
unaware of the direction of this, but i know the arguement is not well thought out. the only way to properly compare the effects would be to have the same CFM put into the engine, not common boost pressure. what one flows at 8psi, the other might at 12psi and vice versa.
Exactly
Most ‘newer’ cars fuel lines will be fine with E85. It’s the aftermarket braided shit that’s no good to use with E85. In fact, braided begins to ‘weep’ after years of use with regular fuel. The most readily available fuel line that is compatible with E85 is Aeroquip socketless, available from Jegs. Did the research years ago.
It changes blends by about 5 percent either way…the fuel is VERY forgiving and as long as your tune is not ON THE RAGGED EDGE on the 70 percent blend you will be totally fine.
Ned, for starters, on stock boost with an NA-T setup, youll be making a bit more power than stock TT guys…
You may have to retard the timing, and upgrade your fuel pump (not sure if they differ from NA - TT) also you will have to upgrade your injectors to TT injectors as well… along with a TT ECU…
For a stock NA-T(T) setup, you wont need an AEM. Run stock boost for awhile and see how the car runs, if your getting Detonation retard the timing and go from there
Unless you want to make big power, theres no need to go stadnalone or any other type of fuel.
It seems like your reading to much into stuff you dont need rather than what youll need to do a basic swap/setup
how stable and reliable are those motors(provided the driver isant a complete newfag or is redlining it 24/7) after you add a turbo?
completely reliable… the only way its going to blow up is from constant abuse like any other motor, or a retard who adds boost and doesnt listen for detonation…
how do the internals take the added heat?
actually the LS6 is not the same motor as the LS1. almost everything down to the block are different. different materials for i would say 40-50% of the motor.
As long is everything is kept up on… theyll be fine… I would recomend running an intercooler and possibly a bigger radiator but on stock boost its not needed.
Most of the internals on the VG engines are pretty strong from factory, while not being forged off the bat they can take quite a beating
Mackenzie you bring up some good points. I’m talking with a guy on 3zc whos in the middle of a NA-TT build. Its dawning on me that its kind of silly to go through the trouble of replacing the NA wristpins with TT spec and not just replace the pistons with forged lower compression like 9:5 or whatever. I think as cool as it would be to do a high c/r TT build I’m going to hold out and build up a TT engine to swap in.
Vot, you would need to add a TT oil cooler as well to help cope with the heat.