Time to build a bully!!

Canada Nissan Automotive
1

In about three weeks

These are the mods i’ll start working on

  1. GA16DE full N/A mods/soon after Boost+assesories: Any Turbo suggestions?

  2. Body work+full OEM skirt package from 1995 wrx + paint job

  3. New tranny, ACT clutch kit stage 4, Fidanza flywheel stage 2, custom cams, advanced timing +5, B&M short shift, Unorthodox pulleys.

  4. weight reduction

  5. lower ride,suspension, wheels tires, alignment.

  6. racing seats + 4 point harness.

  7. maby exhaust. Don’t want anything larger than 2.5inch diametre.

  8. where the heck can i buy a helmet? must be the lightest one available
    i had a 1996 gixxer 600, and i really don’t want the bike helmets, the way they are designed have a certain weight to them for the bikes,it would feel awkward in a car, unless thats what the cars guys use, want one without a visor.

2

dont waste your money on N/A GA16 mods, the intake ports are too small for any worthwhile gains. just buy a turbo manifold, T25, SAFC or rising rate fuel pressure regulator, intercooler and piping, 3" exhaust, mix thoroughly with 5-7 PSI and you’re done. that should net somewhere around 200hp.

new tranny… why?

stage 4 clutch? overkill

cams? pulleys? waste of money

short shifter? just get an energy suspension shifter bushing and cut your stock shifter short (you’ll love it)

the rest sounds good.

3

^^^^^lol, bro i have to talk to you before i do any mods, i was actually at my mod mechanic, and we looked and i was like the same thing, damm the intakes ports are too small, then he suggested port and polish job, i told him not worth the money VS power gains.

because i was thinking leaving it how it is would be better for turbo pressure and the full air exhaust circulation system upto a certain psi point.

for the tranny yea your right im 50/50 on that.

for the stage 4 clutch, the price is the same for stage 3 and stage 4, stage one is cheap and price diff from stage 3 to 4 is about 20 $, stage 2 is pricey for compared to the rest.

plus i seem to burn clutches, and right side cv joints, more than anything, i think its the way i drive cable clutch cars, or in gerneral.

i though pulleys gave good 10 plus hp?..no
cams for better accel?..no

cutting the shifter won’t it damage the stick weight distribution for easy shifting?..i want less throw, not short shiffter.lol…what do you think?

ohh and btw thanks…you know how mechanics can be sometimes pushing for something you don’t need, and you stand there still trying not to look confused, lol, after a while say, yea, okay, i’ll be back, then you go home and research till you drop dead,lol thats what i do…lol

but try to come by this sat to kc, i need a one on one B13 course from you.lol

4

I think it if plan to drive this on the street the stage 4 clutch is gonna make it a PITA…

5

your motor is a perfect turbo candidate, but you have to do it right and spend the money in the right places. dont get into machining the motor, porting, polishing, bottom end build ups or any of that unless you really love that motor and want to keep the car for a long time. the idea is to slap on a turbo and go have some fun, so keep it simple, the most i would do is a cometic head gasket (not the thick ones) and some ARP head studs.

underdrive pulleys reduce the reciprocating mass and drag, but the “power to money” ratio is shit. the reduced drag also makes your motor rev faster, but with a lightened flywheel you wont really need the pulleys for that. if you had an SR i would say to go for the 2 pulley set due to the FWD SR’s water pump cavitation problems above 6500 RPM, but i dont think the GA has that problem, so f*ck it.

the tranny should hold out for a while as long as you dont get greedy with the boost.

if you get a puck style clutch, it will be jerky and difficult to drive on the street with such a light car especially, i would suggest some sort of heavy duty OEM style clutch, something from JWT www.jimwolftechnology.com or JGY www.jgycustoms.com if they carry GA stuff.

dont be a clutch rider… i dont know what else to tell you. as for CV joints, they went on my sentra when i first got it as well, its just something they do i guess, just replace it, i havent had problems since.

im sure cams will give you a decent amount of power, especially on a boosted car, but how much do you really need? the turbo will provide plenty, so f*ck the cams.

I dont know how your shifter is, but mine is damn long, im gunna cut that bitch by a good 3 or 4 inches and get myself a weighted shift knob, I’ve already got the ES shifter bushing which apparently makes a huge difference. I’m not a fan of short throw shifters and i like the throw on mine, but the shifter itself is just too damn long, but who knows, yours might be different.

i posted up a set of links when you were asking about setups before, i highly suggest you look into them, especially www.nissanperformancemag.com they have 2 GA16DE-T build ups

I dont think I’m coming to KC on saterday, i might show up, but not for long, its kinda boring.

6

^^^okay…if your not comming its all good… thanks for the info and links…i’m checking them out right now.

7

I’d stay away from JGY if you can help it. There have been horror stories on the www.sr20forum.com site about them.

8

^^^ I agree…ive heard nothing but bad things from that company,

9

Don’t be too hard on the GA16. I have two SR20s yet I’m still taking the GA out to the track. It’s a solid engine and even N/A it performs well - but that’s road race style. If 1/4 mile is your track then this is the wrong car. If you’re looking for a Fidanza flywheel, FastNX on the SR20 forum has a brand new one. Connect with him there or I can help you make a connection. http://www.sr20forum.com/naturally-aspirated-performance-parts/198707-ga16-fidanza-flywheels.html
UR pulley will be very hard to find - I don’t think they make them for this engine anymore. Cams offer a lot, but need the right ECU too, which makes that a pricey option.
Please don’t get a 4 point harness unless you’re putting a roll bar/cage in. Otherwise your head has no place to go in event of a roll-over.

10

Hey guys thanks for the advice really helped me alot before i went and dumpped all that money.

I’m only or was thinking of going to the drag strip for fun and to see what my car is pulling 1/4 because its mind boggeling to see why my car out runs or keep side by side with some of the cars that have 140hp to 200 hp like the vw vr6’s, civic b18 non-vtec,G20,fully done up 1998 tiburon non-turbo,97 N/A accord coupe.When i have seen a GA16de on the web doing 19 sec 1/4 although it was an auto, i don’t see a manual car making that much of a difference i.e running 15 sec, more like 18 something 1/4 but the cars i have been with i know are 16 or 15 sec cars.

Anyways things are getting really complicated and i’m really busy now days with my career, and from the comments i’ve heard and gained information from the nice people i’ve met at the meets, im thinking of saving the time, blood sweat and money, by waiting a few months, and buying a RWD that can go on tracks, drag and drift, therefore, i may just use the sentra for the daily drive and sell it by next year or keep it to build on later when i’m done with my studies and internships.

thanks for all the help.

11

yeah, i know… they sent me 10:1 forged flat top pistons when i ordered 11:1. then when i called them back, they gave me the run around and told me to talk to CP Pistons. I have heard of them leaving screwdrivers in the oil pan, blocking the oil pick-up with teflon tape and other carelessness. i definatly wont be ordering anything from them again.

12

If you are interested I have a brand new in the box high performance KOYO radiator for sale. It’ll be perfect for your project.

Let me know

http://xs220.xs.to/xs220/07441/senta9199.jpg