I have a mk4.
I have a spare Carbon inlet duct if needed. They are cheap if needed.
Picy: 
Hmm, that would look hot where my little vent thing is…
How much?
Hi and thanks.
Below is a nicer photo of this item. Maker is Billion just so you know! Price is firm at 105 USD (shipping included). Only have one in stock now.
Oh no i was pwned by some smilies… Every time you post you come off as a jackass and your lack of knowledge is so transparent. I am glad at least the people who work around you know whats going on.
+1 on brakes, tires and a seat. No 5 point harness without a roll bar because if you end up on your roof you don’t want your head becoming the roll bar.
I’ve tracked 2 different basically stock cars and both of them had serious braking issues after several hot laps. The GTO ate a new set of stock pads in one outing at Dunnville.
lol that was my GF! shes good. this was my 1st season of autox (drove the 2.0auto beetle) and it really felt good to beat STi’s and other “fast” cars thru raw time & pax, makes you wonder if the other people know how to get their cars out of neutral. then they kicked me out of novice:tantrum:
as far as mods go, this coming from a fellow VW owner. youre going to get pwned and wont be competitive since you already have mods (for autocross). with your suspension youre already smack dab in STS/STX/STU class and out of G-stock. With your reflash youre going straight into ESP or SM where pax is against you by a lot. changing the seat is ok in the -SP classes and SM class, but brake cooling ducts and stuff might be SM only, youll have to double check the rules. Id say a steering wheel is a waste of money. Get Hawk HP+ pads or the equivalent but nothing less. The HAWK HP+ have great modulation and even when theyre hot and smoking i get solid pedal feel (i felt totally comfortable going into turn 2 at TMP @ 100). Put your sway on the middle setting if its adjustable, as you get to be a better driver you can choose to make it more or less stiff, based on your driver preferences and how much under/oversteer you want, especially with different compound tires. Use stock camber specs for your first season, and make sure you get an alignment before you start racing, the difference is like night and day.
cliffs notes:
-dedicated pair of rotors for track
-dedicated set of HAWK HP+ pads or equivalent
-good DOT 4 fluid changed before every track outing
-street tires *it will take you a season to learn you pressures anyway
oh and just an FYI some of the rules in autox are bogus, but any carbon fiber parts place you diretly in SM even if theyre only cosmetic
I thought I remembered meeting you in person. I know we talked a bit at NCCC early in the season.
lol yeah she’s good, no shame in getting beat by her. :lol: I just can’t think of a better reality check than getting owned by a girl in an automatic Beatle.
That was a fun day.
If you plan on doing track days, where you’ll be doing 20 minute sessions I STRONGLY recommend at least upgrading your pads and changing your brake fluid. Even if you don’t upgrade, you should change it annually.
In my opinion tires are optional for the first season.
Thanks for all the info, I didn’t think anything about all the mods I have before starting auto-x lol, But I heard there’s a noob class if its your first season? either way It should still be fun to get out there and try it.
I’m going to run something like azenis on my stock rims, I’d use my normal summer tires but I’d prefer not to kill the tires since they’re much larger than stock(18x8.5) compared to(17x7.5) and my rims are also pretty rare/expensive lol.
yep you have to start off in novice for up to a year, so regardless youll still have to figure out how to class your car:
eg. your open class is street mod: SM
your novice class is novice street mod: NSM
basically your PAX will still be applied but you will be only competing amongst the novices (PAX is a method of adjusting your raw times to level the playing field, in order to compare slower and faster cars)
Ah I gotcha. I have my car lowered, Rear strut bar, Intake, Exhaust, and Flash tune is coming in feb.
Any clue what I’d be in from that info or would you need more?
Thanks for your help.
And even though you are competing against other novices, your class pax counts. Keep that in mind as well.
Is there anywhere I can read all of this info? Like with basic english so a n00b like me would understand?
I appreciate the help. I’d like to learn a ton and have a great time this summer doing this stuff.
just a gander w/o checking too much id say with your suspension youd be in N-STX, and with your reflash youd be in N-ESP: you have to read the SOLO handbook classifications, ill find a link…
http://www.scca.com/documents/Solo%20Rules/2007SoloRules.pdf
*start off on p.62 (manual page, not pdf page)
http://www.scca.com/contentpage.aspx?content=61
There’s the 2007 Handbook. They haven’t posted the 2008 yet(?) but when they do it will be on that link.
click my sig
5-6 point harnesses with a guide bar or truss is fine, as long as you still have the stock 3 point belts for use when on the street.
Good brakes, good brake fluid, good tires, proper tire pressures (you’ll have to figure those out trial and error style), your own helmet, all mechanical components in perfect working order, and the proper attitude are all you need to start. “Mods” should come later.