that pressure plate and flywheel look fucked. i would be scared if i saw that much rust on mine
I f u cking LOVE my clutch
I had the stock unit done into a 6 puck kevlar spring disc and had the pressure plate hold increased 50%
Pedal feel isnt much different from stock “i have more pressure or what not set @ the pedal so its a tiny bit stiffer”
Clutch holds beautifully and wont slip “i’ve ran 12psi with it”. She’ll slide sideways 1st - 2nd and peels 3rd effortlessly 
mine was $406.60 stage 3-4 setup
hahaha, dude a few people tried telling me to use it and it would hold :roll:
hahaha, dude a few people tried telling me to use it and it would hold :roll:[/quote]
You need to stop hanging around Hector and s13GG.
hahaha, dude a few people tried telling me to use it and it would hold :roll:[/quote]
You need to stop hanging around Hector and s13GG.[/quote]
naw it wasnt either of them…
hector was actually the one who got me onto euro-drive or what not…
Gonad, clutch is hosed for sure. Good work on figureing out the problem and getting it out quick.
I’m actually getting an ACT NS1-HDR6 myself, just working on the best price. If you are interested in doubling up the order PM me.
hahaha, dude a few people tried telling me to use it and it would hold :roll:[/quote]
You need to stop hanging around Hector and s13GG.[/quote]
naw it wasnt either of them…
hector was actually the one who got me onto euro-drive or what not…[/quote]
Applesauce you need to learn not to say my name you fcking a$$hole, im really getting tired of you tlking shite all the fcking time. Your gotta a fcking problem with me come solve it instead of being a litte bitch that hides behind his keyboard.
If you got a problem, PM will solve it, check out this hook while the DJ revolves it. :ugh2:
guys air in the line would only make it impossible to RELEASE pressure from the clutch. if you cant move the car that means clutch will not engage, either the pedal is not properly adjusted and leaving the clutch half disengaged all the time (if you used your stock slave and it was working fine before then this is impossible)
or the clutch is fuck showed.
option b seems to be the truth in this circumstance
RPS 6puck or eurodrive 
I had never adjusted the clutch pedal in my car, and I left the slave that
came with the SR tranny on (didn’t use my KA slave).
Only when I went to remove slave did I notice fluid around the rubber line
and eventually turned out to be a rip in the rubber.
Nonetheless, the fact that the clutch didn’t engage without a slave pretty
much canceld out the lines/master/slave/pedal hydraulics.
Now when you say my ‘clutch’ is f*cked, do you mean the pressure plate
or disc (or both?). Only because the disc appaears to have some
material still (at least compared to my KA disc which had the inbetween
metal plate showing through).
I’m not an expert but my guess is the Pressure Plate is Toasted… Clutch Material looks pretty worn thou (in my own opinion doesnt look like it would grab well)
Even if the Clutch was alright but the Pressure Plate was f u cked the car still wouldnt move right ?
[quote=“Jedi_Car_Fan”]
I’m not an expert but my guess is the Pressure Plate is Toasted… Clutch Material looks pretty worn thou (in my own opinion doesnt look like it would grab well)
Even if the Clutch was alright but the Pressure Plate was f u cked the car still wouldnt move right ?[/quote]
Bingo. The PP looks shot - the forks are not sprung up. Clutch look good but getting close to the rivets. No PP, no power transfer to tranny.
Get Euro to rebuild the PP and get a ceramic 6puck. Why pay more for ACT, Spec and the like (excluding the big jdms). Same shit.
Your flywheel looks pretty messed up as well… get a resurface.
Fly was going to be resurfaced regardless of its condition anytime I
remove clutch.
I’m not reusing this unit. If anyone wants to buy it to rebuild it, they’re
more then welcome to as I plan to get the ACT unit (or anything
equivalent that may grab my attention in the next little while).
Euro-Drive turn around is 2-4 days…
They wouldnt re-use/re-manufacture your disk… just use the spec of it to make a brand new one…
Pressure Plate would be fully re-built and improved upon to your liking…
Ceramic 6 puck sprung disk is $160 I think and a 50% Pressure Plate Increase is $220… so for $380.00 its quite a good deal.
FYI, the OE PP housing is thicker than ‘most’ of the aftermarket performance PP housing.
FYI, the OE PP housing is thicker than ‘most’ of the aftermarket performance PP housing.[/quote]
Your point? It still doesnt have that clamping power as aftermarket pp units.
Anywho the pressure plate and the disc both have the word “UNISA” on
them and the disc has the word “NISSAN 225LDB”. Whatever they mean.
The angle on the pressure plate blades is very small…like maybe a
couple degrees. What’s normal?
I think that is what mms meant…
My guess is they should be on a 10-15 degree angle ?
One or the other or both.
Either no friction but pressure, or lots of friction but no pressure, or insufficient pressure and friction
in this case it seems like the pressure plate is fucked.
Why didn’t you change the clutch while the motor was out of the car?