Hurricane straps are supposed to tie the rafters to the top of the wall plate. You were close though. The drainage trench you speak of is available at Lowe’s. Just used one on my driveway. See my thread.
They would not prevent my studs from pulling way from the top plate if I installed them properly.
When I decide to fix the bowed rafters, I will probably use steel supports properly.
No job is complete unless I have had to redo it once or twice.
More progress if you want to call it that.
The slab is in worse shape than I thought. To even come close to level, I needed a more height on the front.
I am beyond terrible doing masonry work at the moment. I have given up on my quest for a nice level base of block to build from and will figure out how to make the garage level after.
Especially because as it turns out I did not choose the highest corner to start from.
Anyway, enjoy the comedy of errors this is turning into
I also found someone that I am going to pay $7/hr to dig for me. Worth every cent, if he actually has a small level of givashitivty. (fingers crossed)
It was great when the front of the garage crept forward 2" as I lifted it up
my mix was a little bit too thin, so I rigged up a form of sorts at a time when I would have rather been doing anything else.
Not terribly thin, but enough to annoy the crap out of me.
Now I just need to find a drill bit long enough to go through the blocks and into the slab with the blocks in place.
then I can fill them with concrete.
I think I see what you’re doing here. Would’ve set the blocks to match floor pitch, jacked wall to top plate level (if it was that far off), then cut sister studs to individual length. I have a Hilti hammer drill with bits that might work. Normally you lay out your holes, drill, and set steel pins, then drop block over pins and fill with concrete.
I mistakenly thought my life would be easier if I made the blocks level using mortar accommodate the grade.
I have a long 3/4" bit, but longer would be nice.
I was expecting things to dry up much faster than they did and instead of racing the clock, I would drill after I set the blocks
I’m a hack.
The remainder of the work will go as you suggested.
My 3/4"x12" SDS bit in a std hammer drill does the job, but slowly.
I’m hoping to set the wall back down today. Should be fun wrestling it back into alignment.
I don’t think will to do much for level. It is less than an inch over 22’. Thats already a huge improvement.
Seeing as all the wind did was blow my car port over, and not the garage I decided to put some more work in this past weekend.
The back wall finally holding it’s own weight. This was by far the worst area of the garage, and I probably should have cleared out the rafters before jacking it up, but I survived.
It did worry me a bit when the back wall was tilting inward. It was at least 3" to the inside of the blocks.
Thats what I get for not jacking it properly
Hopefully, this week I can finish up the last wall.
Then there is only 50 other little stupid things to fix. Siding, run outlets, fix the bowing etc… Then paint…
I think that will be spring time work.
Once the walls are nailed down, I’ll work on this problem.
I should be about done by the end of the weekend. I’m going to cover the gap with plastic until I figure out a cost effective
siding solution in the spring.
Hopefully, I can fix my garage door so that is stops going off track at some point too.
I am wondering how long this fix will actually last. If I had to do it this way I probably would have used full sized block, drilled down into the pad , set your rod filled the block and used a 2x6 plate to fix since it’s kind of hard to do it with the wall existing. It still wouldn’t have been the greatest fix.
If the rod isn’t set in far enough it really isn’t doing anything and it can still probably fall apart, it just won’t rot out.
Which is why it’s usually 42" deep , 12-18 wide filled solid with concrete with rods set in that , then a few courses of block with rods in that after they are filled with concrete to secure the plates. You can easily kick down a block wall if it isn’t filled. You can probably kick down a single course of block regardless even if there is fill
I did use a bunch of re-bar drilled into the pad and filled the blocks.
I do not expect it to last forever. If it survived the last month and some annoying windy weather in the precarious way that it was lifted and supported, I should
be much better off once its on the ground.
No matter what, it will be 1000 times better than the muddy shit hole I have suffered with for the past 8 years.
I’m thinking that the only reason it did not collapse is because fate would never dare to damage the fine vehicles stored within.
Could I have done it better. Absolutely. would it have been worth the additional time, cost, and effort. Not really. (famous last words I’m sure).
I have come to realize that when people buy newer construction homes for a lot of money, they are investing in their free time.
It’s hard to assign value to doing whatever you want, vs always having something to fix.