I see …
Is it possible to run an Anti-roll bar on the f-bod with the way the tank is in the way ??
strange are cheaper than QA1s.
afco are the baller shocks… im not about to drop a lot of coin on shocks though. should be fine with what it’s got for what im looking to do
why wouldnt it be? there are tons available. the one im getting attaches to a the panhard bars. it is all one unit and bolts in to stock locations. the tabs weld onto the rearend, the the unit is fully removable. people say it actually handles well in the street, which is a big selling point for me
you could give up a couple on the 60’ … you will make it back up on the big end anyways
I see … it will still flex for taking turns …
thats what i figure. if i can get to a 1.5 which i think is very doable, it will produce good times. my 1/8th sucked for what i was producing in the back half. now the car is only faster. and i never had the car to the track when everything was working solid. i can launch with boost now, so as long as i can get it to hook up, and things arent breaking…im pretty excited to see what it can do
Just do whatever Brian Zaid does …
he seems to have it ALL figured out …
That is a complete waste of time for anyone that wants to run in an IHRA/NHRA index class. The only compromise is using an auto 100% of the time on both street and track. An M6 will never ever compete in Hot Rod or Super Rod (Super Gas). You should build another car and keep it NA if you want to run Super Gas, a turbo car will be easy pickens for us. Turbo car = Great for heads up/ all out racing, not so much bracket racing, two very different worlds. 
:picard:
well today we were putting the 6pt in. i will still say the “layout” and “design” of the roll bar is very nice, as is the fit and finish.
unfortunately, the popular final resting place of the main hoop is WAYYY too close to my head. it amazes me that people actually drive around in the street with the bar this close to their head. if i were to be rear-ended, i would without a doubt become some sort of vegetable. my corbeaus aren’t helping either, being about 1" higher than stock, but still not the main problem. (i tried with stock and corbeaus) the bar is way too close to my head both horizontally and vertically. i could probably get away with it in a tense racing position with the seat upright and legs at 90*, but for relaxed street driving, :picard:
right now im just whipped, so ill get back on this another day. the bar needs to come wayyyy back, and even at that it will never be high enough. i would need kirkeys. its pretty rediculous considering im 6’, not exactly andre the giant
How much head to roof room do you have in your normal sitting position? How big is the tubing you’re using?
do they make a lower prof seat rail for your seats? but idk i had trouble seeing to the front of the hood and im like 6"1ish.
pics?
lol its impossible seeing to the front of the hood in these cars.
what i dont understand is, the bar needs to be over your helmet. in my stock seats, when i had my helmet on, i would need to crouch in my seats in order for my head to fit. these are the only rails available for my seats unless i make some. like i said, that isn’t the main issue here.
normal (relaxed) seating position, if i lean back and stretch my neck towards the bar, my head has no problem clipping the bar
Ah i see, what about slighly sliding the seat up, or would that make the car even more unfortable to drive?i cant actually picture what the cage looks like lol
Can you move the back back and still pass a tech at the track?
no good. i slide it up one click for racing position. anything more and im bound up. i go back 1-2 clicks for street driving, depending on the day… i wont give up comfort and safety for ability to run at the track and “safety”. i will scrap the track idea as fast as you can say go if this is a big problem, but i dont see why i can’t make it work. its just a PITA because this was a part of the build that was only a days work… now its going to be a couple :meh:
i can move it back. its going to be a PITA, but thats not the major problem. the larger problem is vertically. if tech were to come out with a ruler, it would ultimately become nearly impossible to legally pass tech the way the hoop is vertically. even at that, if it did, my main concern if for street driving. this is a STREET CAR which i drive all the time. i drive it too/from the office every nice day. i like my head withOUT a 1 5/8" dent in it
i was leaning towards a 4th gen for this summer but after riding inmy buddys t/a ive concluded i dont fit very well im 6,4 btw
good luck with your predicament, atleast you’re making progress. :tup:
well… 1 step forward and 2 steps backwards this weekend… it happens…
first an announcement…:
…and if you will look out your window, you may notice pigs flying… :lol:
the no-good mock up:
(only thing i fully welded was the back bars on the base. came out cleanly with a cut off wheel. i was certain the bar was properly placed. oh well NBD)
…im almost happy i had to remove the back bars because i was not happy with my welds. i am so not used to the smaller welder. with my 220 welders in the big shop, i can make these welds perfect… well anyways…
welding on the plates…meh
some interior shots with the new toys. kinda pissed because the flash from the camera really highlights the imperfections… it looks clean and dark when you see it in person
ALLLLL disassembled, BACK TO SQUARE 1
engine bay… ugh, this pisses me off. everything will be ripped out and shined up like new. bay will be repainted if i have to, but im hoping some real hot soapy water will clean it up.
new hoosiers. should plump up another good inch or two with air in them. 335’s vs 315’s
primered the gas tank the other day. thanks to JT76 and jen for sanding it up for me :tup:
starting another parts pile. i need to ditch some of the stuff on my shelves and reorganize.
car vacuumed and floor swept, ready to attack this after exams
i have my exams this week. after i will be back in the office working full time, but will have more free time after hours to get on this. my goal by the end of winter break is:
-have the tubs and cage 100% complete
-have all interior wiring done
-have the back half of the undercarriage painted
-have the car rolling (aka rearend rebuilt and in the car, along with all the suspension, gas tank, rear lines brake and fuel, etc etc)
-fuel system complete
-engine/trans/turbo etc pulled for cleaning
-in the body shop preparing for paint
i think this is very doable