Why is it so hard to just move the main hoop back? There is a brace right where the rear seats mount to going across the car which is a main structure point of the chassis, that is the best place for the main hoop ‘structurely’, however any place will work as it is all tied together anyway. I dont understand the vertical part that your worried about passing tech with?
Also on the two bars going back, are the plates that go above the gas tank just being welded to the top sheet metal there or is there a support underneath on 4th gens more tward the outside where you have them located? On my 3rd gen there were only to frame rails under the rear deck so i welded the plate directly on top of them. Most people dont mount them there because of cosmetics, they space them out but i wanted strength. Just a thought.
Here are a few pix of mine, you can see where i mounted my main hoop to the floor, i made a box out of the plate steel, welded it to the floor. its even with the side pillar of the car behind the back seat, plenty of head room. And the two rear bars. All in all it was very confortable to drive on the street, might have been better if i had lowered side bars but that wouldnt have passed tech.
yup there are supports spot welded underneath on mine in the same place. my plates are on the outer edge since the bars are designed to be wider. im going to come up with some way to reinforce that
i didnt mess around with it too much, but from what i can tell the hoop is too wide to mount where that main brace is… i am definitely thinking about getting it up there somehow. if not, i will just angle it more i guess. ill make it work one way or another, i’ve hit snags in the past that never stopped me.
im not that worried about the tech in regards to the height of the bar. its just sort of icing on the cake
also, if worse comes to worst, ill bring the hoop over to vitez’s and have him put couple slight bends in it. i was already hitting him up on the cell last night, lol
Sounds like you just started to weld it up with the hoop not leaned back enough? The wolfe 6point in my camaro fits great, I put padding on when I 1st put it in. but no one else dose, and it blocks view thu the rear view alot. I’m 6ft 185 and have to get my ass like 1 ft out of the seat, to hit the hoop. Its back under the Bpillar almost. There some pics of it here, I have some more too. http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58980
Few other cars I’ve driven fit fine to.
mine is only about 1/2" closer to the front than that. my head only hits if i lean back towards it… definitely not a risk im willing to take. i do need to lean it back more for sure, obviously… i was using the front bars as a gauge to clock the main hoop; that doesn’t give me enough play.
that was obviously a shot, im not stupid. you were on my leg before when you “lost respect for me” because i didn’t rebuild it up to your timeline. now you are saying “if you didnt ruin your car by starting it on fire…”
:rolljerk:
fact of the matter is i could care less what other people think. im NOT building a drag car. im building the same old street car that now i can enjoy at the track with the addition of a few parts. keep the drama out of my thread
Sorry bro but I wasnt starting drama. I didnt think it came off that way.
Your car did get ruined when it burned up though right? But had it not would you still have tubbed & caged it into a drag car. Thats all I was asking? Sorry if its a touchy subject…
to answer your question, no, i would not have. i’ve been contemplating putting a roll bar or cage in it for a couple years now. i kept deciding no because i was happy the way the car was. i never wanted to climb over a bar, take away from the street aspect, etc. i especially didn’t want to rip out the interior to do so, so it made no sense to do that.
now that i had to rip out the interior anyway, if ever there was a time to do it, it was now. so i said what the hell. same situation with the tubs. i was never really interested in doing those at all, but they were a “oh what the hell, might as well” type deal when i was purchasing the cage.
but like i said, it is still not a “track car”. if it was, i would have got a 10pt plus cage and parachute to make it legal, among other things. i would have also bought a glide to help knock a quick 1-2 seconds off my ET. im not interested in doing that. i wouldn’t have spent the money i did on leather seats, and i wouldnt be putting multiple amps and a sub in the car. it is still a street car, i just simply want to be able to take it to the track number 1, and number 2 get some sort of satisfaction doing so. ability to get off the line will help this
It must be more than 1/2" then. In john’s car, I can’t touch it with my head when I have the seat belt on, even if I lean back as far as I can. Post up a pic (if you haven’t already).
don’t have any. its clear i have to lean it back more. for some reason, when i was mocking it up, i thought i cleared 100%. i also relied too much on the jig-notching and the “flushness” of the bars. im not too worried about making it work right, im just pissed at myself for wasting most of a day’s work
well i decided what i want to do IF i decide to do it…in the future that is…
this is the setup i’d go with if i “do” the rearend and get wheels for the track. by do, i mean shorten the axles. before i was going to scrap this rearend and go with a 9", but i think i’d consider shortening this one 3" on each side and getting a spool. it would be much less expensive. i’d just have to look into the spool much deeper before i did anything like that. if it was a spool with my low profile tires id scrap that idea in a second, but obviously big tires cushion the shock much better.
looks badass imo. with billet specialties street lite rims. i wont do this until down the road though, because i promised myself i would blow over a certain amount of my money. i want to make some more loot before do something like this, but at least i know what to aim for now
about 30" tall… pretty damn wide i guess, but i like the tucked look. i think the ones pictured are 325’s on a 15x10 rim. i can easily get 15x12s in there but i like the tucked look