Just to get started i had the timing belt replace for regular maintenance. Not sure if it is a reason but im throwing it out there…
Little info its a 2001 Ford Focus with about 125k on the SPI motor Never really had any real problems with it.
Well every once in a while more often than not when you start the car it will stumble like there is a misfire. The things is about a minute later the car will level out and run completly fine. Other times it will just start and run normal.
I had also noticed there is a funny ticking sound that also comes and goes after the car starts. It sounds like an exhaust or compression leak. Its seems like its on top of the motor near the injectors or throttle body. It may be from the injector its not the injector tick its much louder like an exhaust tick but goes away.
i had a code come up once and it said its was the number 2 cylinder misfire. The weird tick seems to be coming from the number two area near the injector (possibly a bad o ring) again the tick comes and goes.
I pulled the plugs the number two plug was a little brown where as the others seem to have a little bit of white ish residue (not like coolant leaks).
Does anybody know where i should start with this thing. Its our only real means of trasportation and is very much so needed. The car still gets 30+ mpg so im not sure what the issue is.
plug on left is cylinder2 (possible problem) right one is another cylinder
I can’t remember specifics or if it was just the zetec engine but I know for sure 01’s have fuel pump issues. No idea if that could cause your issue but its something to look into. I had one replaced under warranty in my old focus. I believe it stumbled in right hand turns. There was an extended warranty on the pump itself.
clean the MAF for starters…the only other thing i can say is that the SPI’s are known for grenading without warning…I’ve never seen one break 150k miles. I have a zetec spare engine if your down for a swap lol
not to be rude but ARE U FUCKING SERIOUS!! Geeze if this happens thats just another shit fall in my life!
The car already has this small internal knock kinda like the LS1 motors upon cold start up. But damn i didnt know that. Well lets hope she lasts lol. Im still looking for the problem.
What does a bad injector sound like and how to you check one??
But actually the car has been doing very fine since ive pulled the plugs and cleaned them…Just still has that ticking sound here and there
I think im going to pull the valve cover and look at the lifters and stuff for the #2 cylinder…
Is the valve cover gasket reusealble?
the tick seems to come and go but it seems to sound more like a metal on metal, it rises and falls with the rpms but is not always there. The rough idle isnt always there when the tick is there…
There’s also a TSB just explaining about burnt exhaust valves. That’s where a compression test would come into play.
Quote:
Article No.
04-9-1
05/11/04
^ DRIVEABILITY - ROUGH IDLE, LOW POWER
AND/OR STALL AT IDLE WITH DIAGNOSTIC
TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0300-P0304 STORED IN
MEMORY - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.0L SPI
ENGINE ONLY
^ ELECTRICAL - MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP
(MIL) ILLUMINATED - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE
CODES (DTCS) P0300-P0304 STORED IN
MEMORY - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 2.0L SPI
ENGINE ONLY
FORD:
1997-2002 ESCORT
2000-2002 FOCUS
MERCURY:
1997-1999 TRACER
This article supersedes TSB 02-09-01 to update the service and part information.
ISSUE
Some vehicles equipped with the 2.0L SPI engine may exhibit a malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illuminated and diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0300 through P0304 stored in memory. The vehicle may also have a rough idle or reduced power condition, and/or may stall at an idle. This may be caused by sticking exhaust valves due to excessive carbon build-up.
ACTION
Check for faulty fuel injectors and ignition wires. One or more exhaust valves may be temporarily sticking due to carbon build-up between the valve stem and guide. If the diagnostic checks point to a sticking exhaust valve, the cylinder head assembly may need to be replaced with a new level cylinder head assembly with revised valve guides, revised exhaust valves will also need to be installed to help prevent carbon build-up. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
the random stumbling to leveling out could be a valve sticking then realasing and the ticking could be the valve sticking. It does sound more like a mechanical tick than anything else…
Anyone down for a quick compression test?
I would have cited all that, but you got to it before I could lol. but yeah check your compression and leakdown. but to answer your valve cover gasket can be re-used once or twice, just be careful removing. focus’ do have an audible injector tick normally, but if you hear metal on meta definitely look deeper into it. If you need a hand let me know…or if you wanna borrow a book, I have the haynes, chiltons, and a builders handbook on the focus.
Thanks alot for offering ur help. I know about the injector tick and this is not it. Its much louder kinda metal on metal. But it doesnt sound muffled so its either outside the motor or just under the valvecover. Could be a bad or loose rocker. Totally hoping for it to be something as simple as that.
As far as lending a hand it would be greatly appreciated. If u have the tools for a compression test or just would like to look under the cover to check things out im all about it. Just let me know.
Like i had said its our only car and not really looking forward to needing to buy another one right now.
As u can see im a chevy guy and most of my knowlege and work has been done on an LT1 350 so when it comes to the fords im slightly clueless haha
had a similar issue(stammering idle in start up) with my wifes 99 ranger 2.0 4 banger…check the intake gasket…take some brake cleaner spray the intake manifold around the bottem of the manifold…and around the throttle body…obviously spray on section at a time and listen for changes in the idol if the car stalls or revs you have a leaky gasket replace it and be on your way…
as for the metal on metal sound…
when you rev the motor does the knock speed up or stay the same?
if it does it might be a lifter knock and its not getting enough oil bare with me i don’t remember if these motors are push-rod motors…if so replace the push-rod or clean it and re install…
does the metal on metal sound go away after warm up?
if so it maybe the aluminum wrist pins warming up and expanding thus stopping the knock…and after it cools down it contracts…in turn making the knock sound upon next start up…
for the valve cover gasket…
i wouldn’t plan on using it again…only because of the likely-hood of it breaking upon removal… next time your at wal-mart or the parts store grab a tube of Red RTV(the high temp stuff)…clean both mating points with carb cleaner and a gasket scraper(razor blade and channel locks will work fine) and put a generous helping on the valve cover where the gasket would go install the valve cover…let it sit over nite and it will be good to go in the morning
Well looks like i wont be needed your help anymore the motor went today. Hoping that its the timing belt being as its under warantee and the shop that put it in is also responsible.
thanks for the help guys i was hoping to break that 150k on it lol
So somehow with no previous indications some how antifreeze got into the motor and wash all the oil off the hearings causing them to spin. So the motors pretty much shot and im on the look for a new car.
