Whats the differences? v.clutchs

is this for the CA if so which clutchs are you looking at?

I run a 6 puck unsprung regularly in my 944 thats with about 20lbs of the rotational weight and its not bad at all

Yes. I’m looking at ACT KA clutches. I plan to just pull the one alignment pin.

affirmative

really depends on application.

broken springs in clutch discs = the lose.

I know my friends clutch in his SHO was very difficult to drive. you pretty much had to launch the car from every stop so it wouldent chatter. Unsprung, 9lb flywheel, 4 puck :tdown:

I’m going sprung, its whether or not I want 4 puck now or wait for a 6 puck.

what are your power goals? That motor isnt going to put down HUGE torque numbers, i would think a 6-puck even when u up the power should be good unless u got some crazy numbers in mind

Like I said earlier, 6 puck is on national back order. I don’t want to wait around til mid summer with no car because I’m waiting for a clutch.

what is wrong with running the clutch you have right now untill it is released from back order? Don’t settle get what you want you will be much happier in the long run.

or try seaching for a differernt brand of 6-puck

Honestly as long as it’s sprung, you’ll have no problem with either of them imo. And seriously, a six puck sprung is easy as hell to daily drive.

6 puck sprung is cake as long as you dont have all kinds of play in the motor mounts/driveline. ive driven mine in traffic no problem.

Brian

i don’t see you needing 6 or 4 puck…

just get a regular disc clutch…easier to drive and plenty of grab as long as you’re making under 400whp, which i think is what you’re plans are…

i know they make disc ones that are good for well beyond that too…have you considered a multiple disc clutch?

Choosing the proper clutch for your particular application like anything requires a tiny bit of fore thought.

Things you should consider when purchasing a clutch.

  1. How much torque does your engine produce?
  2. What kind of driving are you mainly going to be doing with this vehicle?
  3. How stiff of a pedal and engagement are you willing to deal with?

Every manufacturer is going to have different torque ratings per clutch set. Some you can even mix and match parts to come up with your own kit much like ACT.

I do not see you making 5 or 600 hp out of the CA. I personally don’t see why you will require a 4 or 6 puck clutch for that matter. You may be much better off going with a full face disk and a decent pressure plate to allow for a more forgiving street driving manner.

This is of course just my opinion with out knowing anything of your setup.

The differences in full face, 3, 4, 6 puck clutches is simply how much of the disc is in contact with the flywheel at any given time the pressure plate is clamped. Presuming that the pressure plate clamp load is the same for each given disc. The less friction material clamped down the greater the force on the flywheel. Same idea behind a snow shoe or a stilletto heal, you are concentrating the same amount of force to a smaller surface area. This, and the type of material the friction surface is made of will determine the harshness of the engagement. Springs help to dampen some of it but the majority of it is due to the friction material and surface area.

You could probably do well with just a full face disc and a decently rated pressure plate.

no one can talk untill they have driven a sold sintered iron disc with dual finger pressure plate. i did it for 2 years. traffic was the worst.

you pussy:cjerk:

i bet you wouldn’t want to get kicked in the ass with his left leg :slight_smile:

my double diaphram pp isnt as bad as everybody says, but yeah, its very stiff, prolly at least 5x the pedal effort of my old 5 speed accord’s clutch