Hey,
I been seeing this being done for the past few years and I’m kind of curious as to the entire process.
Say I’ve got a 15x7 +35 mesh wheel. Would flipping it effectively make it a -35?
Then I need to have every nice and polished and rash/bends taken care of.
Does the wheel have to be a 2pc or 3pc to be able to do it? It would only make sence that it was the face has to be seperatable from the barrel…
Thanks in advance,
Dan
the can cut it out if its not a 3pc. or 2pc. but then ur into big bucks. its almost not worth it at that point to have them cut + re weld and balince them
Ya I can see having them balanced at that point too difficult. Fill, cut, refill, cut… the cycle continues…
I’m pretty sure mine are 2 pc anyways. I should get less lazy and go look haha.
actually alot of 2 pieces wheels can’t be flipped, due to design, also the wheel centerpiece isn’t positioned in the center width wise, so if you flipped it you coulf have a negative offset perhaps out side the edge of the rim lol… dependign on the lip the wheel has to start, which while cool looking is stupid, and possibly dangerous…
you can always have a wheels re made, but it’s like buying new wheels and easily more than the rims you bought to do it to. … it’s really only cheap on 3 pc wheels cause you can get liek 8 of then and bolt together two back halfs a wheel… tho you get a pretty huge wheel, with insane dish often into 10"+ wide minimum
I’m pretty sure that a -35 on a 6" wheel should be ok and hopefully a SAFE flip and the face and rear of the face will (or rather) shouldn’t stick out of the barrel.
how do u figure you have -35 lol, supposing you have a 2 pc +35 or so wheel when you flip it i’s not negative 35 lol … it could easily be more than -60 haha… in fact it’s almost cetainly more… offset is measured from the center line of the wheel to the mounting surface, which is “always” setback from the actual wheel center disc to give u brake caliper clearance. that step brings the mounting surface closer to the center of the wheel or in the case of negative offsets past it.
if you flip a wheel your talking negative the original offset + the step x2
so take a plain mesh mesh wheel, lets say it’s a 35, then lets say theres a step of maybe 20mm between the mounting surface and the rear of the disc face when u flip that wheel, your looking at 35 + 40= -75…
But if you re-measure the wheel after flipping, it won’t be -70. It can’t be on a 6" wheel LOL. I think for once you’re wrong Ted 
When you flip it, does the ‘mounting surface’ as you called it not stay stationary?
No dan hes right, look at the diagram again. His 20mm was just an estimate, its may be less or more depending on the wheel. assuming his estimates are close to accurate, on a 6 inch wheel +0 offest would be in the center (of course) giving you 3 inches behind the mounting hub, when you flip the face, as ted calculated you get and offset of -75. 3" = 7.6cm = 76mm, so your mounting hub with be essentially even with the outter is of the wheel. There is absolutly no way that the mounting surface stays stationary when flipping the face.
It’ll looks stupid and will be dangerous, go get some real wheels :D.
Yes but the point where the inner part of the wheel (face/mounting surface) where the axis about which the face is turned, is located on the +35mm location. Not behind the original face.
I think you got a little confused yourself. A 0 offset wheel when flipped will have the same offset. Because the inner part is flipped about the axis where the mounting surface is. As I previously stated.
When you said mounting surface I automatically assumed you meant the hub of the wheel, I see what you mean now. In which case the mounting surface DOES stay stationary, BUT on a zero offset wheel this surface is NOT at +0, more likely somehwere around the +20 mark to compensate for the thickness of the mounting HUB of the wheel. Becuase the hub protrudes past the mounting surface towards the rear lip of the wheel. So when you Flip the face on a +0 offset wheel you are starting off with a -20 offset and the adding on the thickness of the mounting hub effectively making it -40.
soo where;s this place that I can get my rims’ lips enlarged?!
I have some hoshinos that need to be widen
Ed, you can send them out to a place like Kodiac, or a local place MIGHT do it.
Trev, you’re ALMOST there. I was reading a thread on this on Zilvia. Basically what you have to understand is the axis of flip. The axis of flip on the wheel is the mounting hub. Therefore when the mounting hub sits at 0 and it’s flipped, you will end up with a 0 offset again. The fact that the face sticks out from the mounting hub by whatever amount has no effect on this. It’s flipped on the axis of the mounting hub, as far as I can tell.
EDIT: But then again that is the point of this thread, I wanna find out if that’s correct.
dan your wrong its exactly as i said, it’s a very simple mathematical concept. i’m pretty sure your ethier reading zilvia wrong or silvia is wrong yet again. the axis of the flip is where the center mounts to the wheel.(if it was the mounting surface hub to wheel all you would do is turn the wheel nothing would happen at all) and it’s not common for the disc to hoop mounting point to be at the the 0 mark hence a +0 wheel flipped is not 0… trevs picture is self explanatory… btw if it was at 0 flipping the wheel would do nothing at all, without moving the point where the center disc mounts to the the wheel "hoop"you can’t do this to crappy wheels, if you have a half decent off set on a decently wide wheel already u can gain dish this way… but a 6 is a waste of time
and you most certainly can have a -70, nobody would build a wheel like that, but mathematically it’s totally possible, i have seen -60 wheels in japan btw this is the whole reason why it’s a stupd idea…
offset is the measure of the hub to wheel mounting surface to the center line of the rim the centerline obviously isn’t moving neither is the point which attaches the center section… so when you flip them the mounting surface can only move further away
the main point of doing this was to get stupid dish for those crazy Japanese old school wide bodies, if u really want to do something cool get 3 piece wheels and bolt two back sections together thus netting u pimp wide wheels and a good offset, if u bolt the fronts together you can get super skinny drag wheels also…
or you can have someone weld a mounting ring for the center further back… depending who does it and how it won’t toss the balance very much… also there are computers that will auto do the balance for you… if you have a wheel building shop do it. stick on weights could probably make up for it anyway…
long story short u need better wheels and thats the end of it…
never trust zilvia lol, this is simple math/geometry it’s how it goes…
damn slow ass internet creatign double posting…
Dan, your wrong, the offset will not be the same.
Also your wheels are welded together. They can not be flipped.
