I know someone on this board can help me in some way shape or form as many of you have encouraged me to not give up and get my car done. It runs and cools down now as that was my big issue last year but now are faced with the last couple bugs. To begin for those of you that don’t know I have one of those projects that have been taking years to perfect as I have bought a motor set…pulled it…completely rebuilt by Hunts machine shop but still not running 100%. I have a S13 with a SR20 Rebuilt motor with everything (minus fuel mods) done for performance adders.
The first problem occurs with the amount of power my motor is receiving. Although it sounds aggressive…turbo spools …it’s not goes limp as you try to roll on the boost. 240 Bob came over and checked the timing as I have stage two BC cam gears/Greddy Adj Cam gears thinking that it was off a tooth. We did not find that at all and everything seemed to line up. We are going take it for a test drive in two weeks when and plan on using a timing light to make sure everything is in sync. We have check not only the timing but vacuum line leaks, the IC, grounds, but still no power. I have read (on Nico) that you sometimes need to advance the degrees when you combined that stage two with a aggressive cams but have not found enough to support this idea. Anybody else run aftermarket cams or gears and have you had to make any adjustments? Bob called a couple Montreal D1 guys and they said to line it up TDS and it should work. So I am looking for answers/imput from all on that situation.
The second question is more to see if anyone has a wideband that I can use? When I pulled my plugs today we could tell I was running very rich. I plan on putting a 300ZX fuel filter (and upgrading injectors when it hit a dyno) in to see if that changes anything but would still like to see where exactly it is was running. So if anyone has a spare wide band I could borrow for a couple days I would pay deposit and rental.
only thing i would add to that is at the end of the full 2nd gear pull. press in the clutch, shut the car off then coast in and pull the plugs. if your coasting at idle for a while the plug will change from the WOT color to your idle color.
I have the T28 but did not mod the fuel system (still on 330CC) at all as I know you would need advance dyno tuning. We did pull all of the plugs when we took the vavle cover off and bob reported I was running lean (which makes sense as I would like more bigger CC injectors.) In my mind though it still is off as it does not really build power right now… I have a apexi stand only and can check most every sensor in my car but still need to invest in the wide band to see where I am at. I thank you all for the suggestion and will keep those of you care updated on this painstaking as you will see it in action for the first time every this year.
Does that thin have a wide band O2 attached to the ecu somehow? If so just log that and you will be able to see how the afr’s are without buying anything else.
So to get this straight you have a stand alone, but dont know how to tune it? I am missing something here. Also dont most stand alones have an adaption anyways that gets you in the ball park?
Either way man, no knowing your afr under boost/power, I am sure you dont know your timing either. Lean + boost + lots of timing = kablooooooie in no time. i dont care if its a Nissan, VW, motor cycle, sled… a motors a motor and they all blow up the same ways! be cafefull.
go get a laptop, slap it on the ecu and do some logs and post it up we can help, but we dont have anything to go off of right now.
It ended up being a vacum line as the car matched up with the timing light and node light test. We found a loose IC clamp and vacuum line but are not out of the woods yet. For all the haters it felt great to spool the turbo agian
if u push in the clutch and shut motor down the last remaining fuel will freeze the plug and give u a more accurate reading on the plug. also would do a plug chop and check the colr on insulator.
What does the cam card say as far as timing ??