Where to get BioDiesel?

Whats an acceptable additive and where to obtain it?

lubromoly probably has something. GAP stocks their product.

Capital distric truck center has additive. If you’re gonna use bio make sure you change your fuel filter often. We run bio in all of our busses at work. It has its cons.

I’ll have to talk to Mr. Jackson. Thanks yo!

Thanks for the info man…maybe I’ll steer away from it then. It’s a bit pricier too. Right?

i got 48mpg my last fill. gonna be filling again tomorrow. we shall see how it does. gummed up intake manifold and all!

Mine is barely getting 35. Dumpy!

I’d just use the additive. We are having problems with it because the fuel grows algae in it. It ends up clogging the filters and sometime pulling it past the filter and taking out an injector. I’ve done 2 sets of injectors on cummins ISB’s with 100K on them so far. I’m sure there will be more to come.

What do you guys run as far as %? B20? More?

B20. As long as you change the fuel filter you should be fine. I just wouldn’t use it in my truck because I don’t drive it that much so the fuel just sits. Plus my tank is close to 40 gallons so it has more fuel to grow shit in when it sits for almost a month at a time.

Well I’d imagine that the B2 has much less chance or growth just because it’s that much more diluted with ULSD, although I’m sure it’s still possible. I’ll do some more research before giving it a shot.

I’m also talking about a vehicle with a 120 gal fuel tank. So like I said you should be fine I’d just change the fuel filters every other oil change.

I just read my user manual very closely and it does say that I can run up to B5 (5% bio) so I am going to start running B2 just to be safe. If anything starts to grow in there and it stops running its covered by warranty…cause its in the manual! Woot. Looks like I’ll be headed to Troy for refills now.

re: the whole TDi pump failure/shooting metal through the fuel system- why wouldnt they just install an in-line “backup” filter of sorts, like just a screen/mesh to prevent metal bits from going further up the system?

Might be because of the high pressure^

I suppose.

Wait, the new Jettas have a potential for fuel pump failure resulting in a 10K service? Wat the hell…

Brett, how the hell are you getting 48mpg in that thing.

same way my dad gets 57-59mpg highway in his.

mine is auto and it gets 37-41 city, 52 ish highway, best ever was 56mpg.

i ran heating oil, off road fuel, ulsd, but never tried bioD, never cared to, i just put half a quart of power service in the tdi the last fill up plus the off road fuel to see if im getting any improvement…

next tank im gonna add a bit of 2stroke oil to see if that’ll get the mpg up.

as for difference between offroad and on road
offroad is red, 500ppm sulfur, more lubricidity.
onroad is blueish, 50ppm of sulfur, less lubricidity.

i reallly need to find a white 2dr 5mt golf … ;(

Pete: Unhappy with the auto?

I don’t think I’d want another manual in a commuter car.

Do the older Jettas (MKIV) get better MPG than the “clean diesels”?

jesus hell pete you’ve put more shit in that poor car than psi2high has had in his ass.

and that’s a lot.

i wouldn’t say unhappy, im just bored with it, i want a 5spd so i can put all my “mods” on it and load it up and blow hella smoke, plus a 5mt would be more fun.

the auto is great, not a single issue at all, just boring haha, plus you can’t make too much power thru them as its the same tranny they put in the 2.0s and the tdi’s make 3times the tq they do with a chip and injectors.

the mk4 chasis is the most fuel effiecent motor in the US… the ALH.

the new ones would be close if they didn’t have all that emmissions crap…

however with just a reflash the new CRD ( common rail) make crazy power with just a flash… one just dyoned 138/230 tq and after a flash was at 175/313tq.