Which engine?

So the topic is which engine for the race car.

KA-T or SR20?

I feel that there are benefits for both of these engines, and of course, they both have their down falls.

KA-T:

The motors are of course a dime a dozen, so getting parts for it shouldn’t be a problem, and they will be relatively cheap.

If we are going turbo on this motor, then the usually suspects are needed: Injectors, manifold, turbo, oil and coolant lines, downpipe, intake piping, intercooler piping, bov, fuel management of some sort, intercooler, and of course internals. I know some have mentioned swapping out the internals for the DOHC pistons (which are also easy to get, and cheap), but how much boost/power could these hold? Sure we can get the pistons cheap, but each time the motor blows, its going to cost a good chunk of money to have the block machined for the new pistons each time. The other option is to do aftermarket internals. Eitherway the block will need to be machined, and the cost of pistons/rods are not the cheapest of things.

Of course, it all depends on what our goal is for this motor. How much hp? Torque? when the power is to come in? etc etc. I think if we are getting anywhere near the limits of the dohc pistons, we shouldn’t bother.

So people like Jack (Boost Infested) please let us know our best route for the KA-T.

SR20:

Well, if course we all love it (most of us). The only problem is the initial cost of getting the motor. After that, aftermarket support is great, and there are plenty of used parts out there as well to cut costs. Everything is there for us: manifold, turbo, injectors, ecu, etc. The good thing, is that we likely don’t have to take the motor apart and swap pistons and shit. Just bolt it in and add whatever extras we have or can afford.

The initial cost hits us hard, but in the long run, there could be savings, as there “likely” won’t have to be any engine rebuilds and costs of machining etc.

Here is a real quick and probably wrong breakdown:

KA-T

Motor: Free
Manifold: $300
Turbo: $400 (middle ground)
Oil/Coolant lines: $100
Piping/connectors/clamps: $150 (mandrels)
Intercooler: Possibly free (if not, $300 from ebay)
BOV: Possibly free
Downpipe: $100 (materials etc.)
Fuel Management: Possibly free ($200)
Boost controller: Possibly free ($120)
Pistons: Possibly free
Machine labour: $500 (a guestimate on doing it right)
Misc. Costs: $200

Total: $1750 - $2370

SR20:

Motor: Around $1800 (peiced together, whatever).
FMIC Piping: $150
Intercooler: Possibly free ($300 ebay)
Boost controller: Possibly free ($120)
Rocker arm stoppers: $100
Possible turbo upgrade: $400 (used)
Misc. Costs: $400

Total: $2450 - $3270

All prices where pulled right out of the air and have no validity, and it went from the absolute low side to the high side. It could fluctuate either way.

Theres these two options. Just need to determine which one is more plausible, and works in our advantage in the long run.

For the stock bottom ends, wouldn’t the SR20 hold longer and more power? Therefore costing less in the long run?

Either will work, we just need lists of parts availible to us, and costs etc.

Of course, the route is subject to different peoples opinions and whether they think the block should be machined/pricing on things/used/new etc etc. Just my opinion. Also, longevity is also a matter of proper tuning and use etc.

I was just bored and fired this up real quick. It’s brief but can get us thinking and swapping ideas.

It doesn’t seem like anyone is willing to donate or pay for an sr20, so I think you guys should find a ka24de and turbo it. With stock internals you should be able to make 300whp.

I think a Frankenstein KA-T would be the best and most cost effective choice for the club. The car is driveable, and while we’re waiting for the KA to die, a Turbo KA24DE could be pieced together?? When the engine thats in there takes her last breath, begine the swap!

Motor actually runs really strong. I think the trans will give out before the engine does - in addition to the minor second gear grind, there seems to be a small vibration through the shifter that I would class as abnormal, but then again I haven’t touched another man’s shift knob to really know if that’s normal or not. :smiley:

As for what motor would be better, I can offer no other answer than a turbo one. :smiley:

old z straight six. internals cam and triple weber set up. it would be pricey but there would be next to no wiring. i danno about the weight though. just throughing idea`s in the air here.

JDMSource quoted me $1350 for a complete ca18det for the NECC car.

ecu, ignitor, harness, tranny etc

the vibration happens on or off the gas?

i will do the COMPLETE SR20det s13 for $1900 for the NECC car :smiley: lemme know what u guys think!

Make sure u guys put a few big ass “JDMSource.ca” decals on the car if you guys decided to go through him!!! :cheer: :w00t:

I think we s hould go KA-T. Mainly because it’s cheaper, and still yields decent power.

The question is how much power?

What are the limitations of the stock bottom end KA?

stock rods KADE 440 dynoed…

PS: these guys are using AEM EMS for management

Your right when you say the tranny will give out b4 that motor will, but i think we need to take a step back and realize that this isnt really someones personal car. What are the real intentions of the car?

  1. Club Promotions
  2. racing/drifting public
  3. NECC club member racing/drifting
  4. Learning to race/drift
    and coming into play with all the above would me Maintenace and cost.

sitting here thinking about it, yea it would be so much fun to see the NECC car have an SR20 or CA18 swapped into it. But what happens when it breaks down? maintaing an SR compaired to a KA costs would be alot more. I’m not saying that we’re cheap… but we dont have a swiss account to back us up.

Do we want to use this car as a teaching tool for NEW NECC members who want to learn to drift? cause if we car id chringe watching someone learning thorttle control on an SR20 bouncing off the rev limiter. Where as if it was done with a KA… yea it sucks but its not going to cost nearly as much to find some 2nd hand KA parts to swap if it breaks.

Like i said im on the site allllllll day now so feel free to update me with what you feel??

OHH and my reply is just turbo a KA dont worry to much about hitting overly hi hp and Tq levels… make it fun to drive and easy/affordabe to fix.

No replacement for displacement.

No replacement for displacement.[/quote]

:lol: waiting for the pop can joke.

Am I the only one that thinks twin VG30ETs is the best possible setup we could run? :E

Well, I think a VG30et would kick insane amounts of ass, but that’s us.

Well, I personally think the v12 idea is a good one, but I’m crazy like that. :smiley:

And actually, it is someone’s personal car - MINE! Don’t break it until I find something else, asshats! :slight_smile:

As for the transmission vibration, I test drove it down the block last night and it was smooth with no problems. So now I don’t know what the hell to think. I’ll know when I get my insurance company on board and can actually drive it around town/on the highway to get a better idea of how it runs.

hey kinda throwing this out there but i do have a blown ca18 that can be rebuilt…it was siezed but i cracked it lose and it turns over but no fire or anything! if u are willing to spend some money u can do a rebuild and such!

Would you be willing to jut give it to us? Is it just the block?