Sample Panels:
Satin Black/Pepsi Blue:
Hot Candy Blue:
Letters polished, hot candy blue:
Matte Black/Honda High Gloss Red:
Honda High Gloss Red:
Soldier Blue Metallic:
More photos of them can be found here
Ok, I’m going to be intouch with you soon…what is your name so when I call I’m not asking for “detective coating?”
I like that Black/Red. From everything I can see all the cover holes are masked REALLY well. The work loks TOP notch…:tup:
Do you (You personally) do all the masking? Polishing?..etc?
I hate seeing pictures of great work, sending parts, and then getting them back with the quality of a retarded horse because a “new hire” worked on my Rare JDM parts…what is the guarantee on rework? missed spots? peeled coating? etc…?
EDIT: Have you done suspension parts as well? Do you mask bushing holes? Press-in sleeve holes?
I want to completely rebuild my strut assemblies. If they have oil residue in them from the old cartridge can you still coat them? Will baking the strut with ANY oil out-gas and cause all sorts of shit or do you clean them?
Sorry to fire off more questions. I’m thinking pretty fast.
what colors can you get? i would like my brembos color matched to my car (lightning yellow)
X2 to all that…
Lol, Justin
All threaded holes are plugged or anywhere that powder shouldn’t be is masked off.
I do everything there is, I don’t trust another person to do any of the blasting, masking, polishing, coating, etc. I am the only one that does anything here, I would rather blame myself than hold someone else responsible if something goes wrong.
If there are any issues at all they will be redone free of charge, I back my work up 100%. I usually give a partial refund also. This is only done if it was my fault, if you leave oil, chemicals, tools, etc on your coatings I will not replace them on my dime though.
I have done suspension pieces, steering knuckles, control arms, etc. All bushing holes are plugged so you can fit the ball joint or whatever it may be back in with no issue.
Parts that are contaminated with oil are outgassed before they are coated so that there is little to no bubbling at all. Some times no matter what I do cast/magnesium pieces will get tiny bubbles but it hasn’t happened in quite a while. Outgassing is heating the part up for over an hour at 475 to burn out all oil trapped in pores so nothing comes out at the lower temp/less time.
No problem at all man, I don’t mind the questions one bit!
Oh about 8,000 different colors lol. I have a color called Neon Yellow that would match well but it would need to have a clear coat on it for brakes as this color is not UV stable so the brake dust, etc would discolor it quickly if its not cleared. I can find another close color that is much more UV stable to save you a little money.
If anyone is serious about getting something done,I will be in Cheektowaga next Friday and can pick up parts you want done and meet Justin in Bradford(if it works for him).My house is only 15 minutes from Bradford so wouldnt be a issue at all.Pm me or text me at 716 353-6209.
Great info as alwyas…Thanks!
No problem man!
Finally able to work on some of my own parts for the S4!
OSU Candy Orange lug bolts:
Wheels in Sparkle Silver, this is just the basecoat until I get my Jamaican Teal in tomorrow, cannot wait
Planned on getting a lot better pictures but the weather was terrible and by the time it cleared up it was dark out. Hopefully tomorrow I’ll be able to get some better pictures of them. The light really effects how it looks, almost a dark turquoise with no light but when there is any light on it they really come to life and glow the bright teal and the flake.
My car and a Cobalt SS/SC I did wheels for a few months back:
