So im saving to be a baller vs trying to kill myself and everyone around me with flipped 2pc wheels. Its a 50mm widebody fastback. looking for 9-11" wide wheel…Any wider and the offsets going to be too critical otherwise they will rub either my fender or suspension.
From my caculations with a 11" wide wheel the offset would have to be +20 but +25 to +30 to be safe. I cant roll my fiberglass fenders id have to cut them and re enforce the structure somehow :? that i can figure out later.
With a 10" wide wheel I may be able to get away with as low as a neutral offset(+0) but to be safe +5 to +10…i dont mind using a smaller spacer to make it perfect vs accidently getting a wheel that wont fit.
And for a 9" wide wheel the offset would need to be -30 but to be safe -25 to -20
Ive had little luck with performance places finding wheels and no luck whatso ever at cheap thrills wheels and tire:cry: I also havnt figured out how to make sure the offsets not going to mess around with my coils. Its my Bday in a week so i may be able to afford the wheels soon. i preffere 17s…and these offsets are for the rear only so im looking for a pair of wheels…i dont want 11" fronts…9" at most…and if i have to ill mold bings flares onto the fronts. 4lug or 5lug…currently im 4lug but if i must ill switch over to 5lug. Im so confused in my own words…ill leave it at that please help?
1" is 25.4mm Soo if a 17x9 +20mm wheels sits flush on stock 1/4 panel and i have a 50mm wide body(basicly 2") an 11" wheel should sit flush with a 20mm offset but 25+ to 30+ to be safe because i cant roll my fenders(their fiberglass…i can only cut the inner lip). For the 9" wheel with the offset being crazy low would mean the mounting surface or part that rests on my hub would be away from the outside edge of the wheel. This would be a big dish kind of wheel. I still dont see where i went wrong but correct me if you think my caculations are off.
I always thought negative offset pushed the wheels out and further away from the vehicle because the hub mounting point is so far back in the wheel and high offsets tuck the wheel more under the fender because the mounting point is close to the outside of the wheel. I just can’t imagine fitting 11" wheels with a +30, they would hit your suspension. You’d need like a 0 or negative offset to bring them out. I don’t know, I may be totally wrong on this one
I have some 16x7.5 +32 wheels with 225 tires and they rub my suspension in the front without spacers and are very close to doing the same in the rear.
Shitty…i see where i went wrong…i just added the 2" for the 11" wide wheel to the outer portion of the rim instead of adding 1/2 to one side 1/2 to the other…ill re-caculate later…
Devin with a config like you’re you are really going to need to custom order wheels. It’s expensive as hell because not only do you need to get them custom made which is a bit more (not a lot though) you’ll need to order from a company that will do it. Like Work
Call Work, ask them for the exact sizes you want and a few weeks later you’ll have them.
Are you sure about the little more? Because from my understanding of how forging works, you’re going to need a new set of dies. As far as I know, companies like work use flashless forging to make their wheels to some very close tolerances. In order to make a larger or lower offset wheel, you would either need a whole new set of dies, or put in more metal, do it as regular forging, with flash, then machine off the excess. Either way, if they have to do a lot of machining, it kills the point of forging the wheel, since it loses the strength benefits like having the metal inside line up (dunno how to explain this… hahaha) and you don’t get the work hardening that you get from forging.
Sorry if it’s not detailed enough, but it’s been awhile since I took manufacturing, so remembering is a total whore.
Are you sure about the little more? Because from my understanding of how forging works, you’re going to need a new set of dies. As far as I know, companies like work use flashless forging to make their wheels to some very close tolerances. In order to make a larger or lower offset wheel, you would either need a whole new set of dies, or put in more metal, do it as regular forging, with flash, then machine off the excess. Either way, if they have to do a lot of machining, it kills the point of forging the wheel, since it loses the strength benefits like having the metal inside line up (dunno how to explain this… hahaha) and you don’t get the work hardening that you get from forging.
Sorry if it’s not detailed enough, but it’s been awhile since I took manufacturing, so remembering is a total whore.[/quote]
are you thinking of 1 piece wheels,
because he may have been thinkin’ of 2/3 piece wheels…
Are you sure about the little more? Because from my understanding of how forging works, you’re going to need a new set of dies. As far as I know, companies like work use flashless forging to make their wheels to some very close tolerances. In order to make a larger or lower offset wheel, you would either need a whole new set of dies, or put in more metal, do it as regular forging, with flash, then machine off the excess. Either way, if they have to do a lot of machining, it kills the point of forging the wheel, since it loses the strength benefits like having the metal inside line up (dunno how to explain this… hahaha) and you don’t get the work hardening that you get from forging.
Sorry if it’s not detailed enough, but it’s been awhile since I took manufacturing, so remembering is a total whore.[/quote]
are you thinking of 1 piece wheels,
because he may have been thinkin’ of 2/3 piece wheels…[/quote]
Yea… I don’t know a crapload about it but the example I do have experience with is a 2 piece wheel… maybe I should have mentioned that.
Thinking about it for a sec I’m sure you are correct in the case of a forged 1 piece wheel…
