Ok so i replaced my water pump, also my thermostat since i was in there…
For one the new thermostat is smaller than the OEM nissan (origanal) i got the beck arny or w.e advance one. dont know it that makes a difference. But when you hold them side by side its a big difference. Nissan one is beefy as hell, and the AA special is tiny. both 170 degree thermos.
Second is that i topped off the rad and resivor, and ran the car for ten minutes with heat on full blast.Next i when over to the coolent bleeder screw (used to take all the air out of the system)
Screw is on the right, its the one next to the words on the yellow tag
Now all the air is out, coolent topped off. and STILL runs hot all the time. I have a Mishimoto aluminum rad too if thats a difference. Also have no heat. And the headgasket was done in october… HELP!
Upper hose hot and tstat definitely opening? Sometimes they are a bit stubborn the first few times they open with the cheaper ones.
are you opening the bleeder when ya fill it or as its runnin ,cause its to be opened as ya fill it and shut after a steady flow of coolant comes out then run it and ya prolly got a air pocket in it seein as ya got no heet and runnin warm
drove with the bleeder cracked open from rotterdam to cp in hoping to get everything out. theres a dot and i mean a got of coolent that came out. so i know alot of air came out… and im going monday to get a OEM nissan thermostat. it scares me running almost hot when im driving in 5degree weather. hate to see what summer would be like.
Driven 57 miles with new therm/waterpump also.
I gaurantee you have air in the system… Running with the bleeder open is gonna get more air in the system than it bleeds out… welcome to the world of 240s
its air bound like a fuck let it cool down and open the bleeder then fill wit cooant again when it flows well close bleeder and fill rad again leeve rad cap off and run for awhile it may take a bit as its really cold out till ya get heat then cap it and try again obv add coolant as it drops
idk… still replacing tiny thermo. and ill try a couple of things tommrow.
I have a brand new OEM nissan T-stat if you need it… 15 bucks
listen to me its air bound as ya drove it ,it got more air in it be carefull its shit like that ,that wrecks shit i see it all the time not bein cocky but trust me
the air bleed is actually on the suction side so you do the math
it alot bettter tho. When i left nicks i cracked the rad open and the bleeder screw quick, then closed everything up. when i got home 5 minutes later i did the same. got a little heat but still on the hot side.
admitt it who is your daddy ,lol
Im pretty sure i just said that when i said the bleeder let more air in than anything
ya got it in before me that is all,
but if ya want the credit takeit i dont care its all the same to me ,dont cry over it
Dude you got air in the system. And if you drove to CP while it overheats your done. I used to jack the front of the car way up so the radiator cap was the highest point by far and then fill the system up very slow with the bleeder open. Run the car up to temp, open the bleeder, fill radiator, repeat a few times. Make sure the heater is on Hot, ect. It’s not hard to do. I’m sure you’ve done this before right?
Actually what I just posted above might be mixed information because I used to have to do the same for the RB25 with the stock intake manifold. But I’ve done it on my old KA several times.
BTW the thermostat should be the same diameter, but can vary in lengh ect.
edit - feel the upper and lower radiator hoses to see if they are both hot or not.
