as long as it’s the complete sending unit, there really shouldn’t be a difference. Sometimes you will find parts cheaper at the dealer. I don’t see a lot of this on those cars, so I don’t imagine you would have a problem w/ the ford unit. The pump is fine, it’s the check valve to keep the fuel system pressurized that’s the problem.
I initially forgot this is returnless system, the pump is the only choice, there is no regulator or return line to bleed off. the check valve is part of the pump
I dont work on fords very much anymore but generally ford parts aren’t too expensive from the dealer and generally an oem part will better fit, higher quality and overall will outlast an aftermarket unit for the most part.
also make sure you change the fuel filter, its most likely restricted and causing the pump to overheat.
I suppose it is possible for the fuel rail psi sensor to bleed off psi, a simple check would be to just pull off the vacuum line and make sure theres no fuel in it
EDIT then again I cant remember whether that frps has vacuum reference or not
just replaced the fuel pump yesterday finally, the part that came is a delphi part and the pump itself is made by walbro. girlfriend is stuck again with the car not starting, back to the drawing board…AARRRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!
Wow what a bitch. You never smell gas outside the car do you? I.E. there’s no gas leak right? Ever pull a plug after you’ve been cranking the shit out of her? Yes? Was it wet in the cylinder? Yes? OK then, not a fuel delivery problem.
Are you sure you put the right plugs in her car? I’ve never really read or experienced anything good about multi-tip spark plugs. You might want to find out what’s OEM and swap them in. Don’t bother with expensive platinum tips, they just last longer, which is not what you’re interested in at this point. While you’ve got the plugs out, how do they look? Check here: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/faq/faqread2.asp?nav=31200&country=US
Have you tried disconnecting/disabling the EGR?
Did you have a complete fuel sending unit or just the pump?
i replaced the plugs in the car. theyre platinum tipped from the factory so i got the platinum tipped ones, thats all the sell for that car. I did not replace the whole sending unit, but when i took it apart it didnt look like there was any check valve really. its def not leaking gas at all. im gonna throw a new filter on it and see if that helps at all. my girlfriend and I are really just pissed about this now. Thanks for all the help fellas. im gonna be looking at this tomorow all day.
You need the complete sending unit. The check valve is built into that. You’re still leaking down pressure. Order the complete sending unit. Return the pump. Just tell them they ordered the wrong part and you wanted the complete sending unit from the get go.
hmmmm ok. u think its going to be a problem that i already installed it? ill call them today and bitch at them.
got the new sending unit, installed it, car wont start at all. the part is identical to the old one so thats not the problem. pump is running and i can see the lines get pressure. so what the hell do i do now
If the car won’t start at all then you have to check basics. Check for spark, check for pulse at the injectors. The car ran before you put in the sending unit correct? If so then you had to do something wrong. The problem before was an extended crank time and we verified the pressure was leaking down. Retrace your steps. Is anything unplugged? Re-check everything.
Well that was the original problem, it go a lot worse and at times she would get stuck at random places with the car just not starting at all. Eventually it would kick over and start but it might take like 20 minutes. On two or three occasions ive had to go pick her up and go back for the car at a later time to see if i could get it to start. I didnt change anything under the hood of the car, i simply pulled the old sending unit, it was only 2 plugs, i can visibly see those plugs and they are plugged in. The pump IS running and i can see the lines get pressure. How would i go about testing the injectors for pulse? do i pull one? When i get home ill check these things out and also check for spark. Im reallyfrustrated with this so i apologize in advance if i get pissed and get a shitty attitude with this. I really appreciate all of the input. Ive noticed that there is some kind of black box, which i assume is the FPR. could this be causing a problem? also i think im gonna throw in a new filter for some peace of mind.
Ok guys, pretty much im back to where i started originally. Im gonna just start typing what im thinking in my head so it may take a few edits to get my thoughts correct. Ok, i got the car to start finally. Going with racerx’s opinion, i went back to the basics, pull the plugs, checked for spark. To be quite honest, it doesnt really seem like it is sparking as much as it should be, long intervals between fires. It also seemed like a weak spark, orange/yellow color, nowhere near a strong blue spark. This seems suspicious . I must say though, i have done a tune up on it and replaced platinum plugs and wires. Next, when the car is running, it seems mildly sparatic. Its like it idles up and down, maybe by a fluxuation(spelling) of +/- 100 rpms. This leads me to beleive that the IAC or MAF sensor could be dirty and falsifying readings. Either that or there could be something funky going on with vaccum, but all the vacuum lines seem to be in good condition. Focusinprogress, can you give me a hand this weekend cleaning the IAC? of course food and beer is included. Also, could someone clarify the patterns that i should be looking for in spark. If i find that the spark is not up to par, what types of things do i go about testing? what are ur thoughts on all of this guys?
ok, cant get it started again this morning. tried the egr hack, nothing. im thinking i might have a bad coil pack. is there anyone on here that by some chance has a spare one laying around, or one that i could just borrow of their car for 20 minutes or so. thanks.
spark shoud go every other “crank” of the motor…
spark_spark_spark…the two outer cylinders fire in unison, and the two inners fir in unison. so every other rotation of the motor should spark the plug your testing.
as for the coilpack, you would have a CEL, same for IAC or MAF. if you want i can run your codes over the weekend with my SCT scan tool and pull up any codes for you. try signing up on a ZX2 forum, becuase if its a common problem chances are there is a sticky or something for it and how to fix it. for shits and giggles why not CALL the dealer and ask if you could speak to a tech for a few moments, and explain whats going on and your thoughts.
ive searched every zx2 forum on the web, i get nothing about this problem. As of right now, its not really even starting. it will start eventually, and then after that as long as its warm it will startm but once its cooled down i get nothing. I dont know what to do with this car right now.
i just keep going back and re-reading this crap and its just got me baffled. when the car isnt starting when you want it to, after you cranked it a bunch of times pull a plug real quick and smell it, if its wet and such then you have a spark issue. ford is notoriously bad at lenghts and clearances on harnesses, and a common problem is wires wearing through the casing on them and touching grounds or some of the fibers in the wire break and the wires get very weak.
i was checking the spark on it yesterday and i could smell the gas coming out but the plugs werent wet really, it is sparking but like i said, i dont think it is sparking the way it should be. thats why i want to swap a coil and test it, i need to start narrowing this down. I dont think the coil is completely failing but i think that its getting there.
Did you ever do a compression test? This is highly unlikely but here’s my theory: Bad compression (when cold) till it finally lights off, and then once it warms up everything expands to the point that compression gets high enough to run well enough to start regularly.
Just getting back to the very basics: Internal combustion motors need fuel, spark, and compression.
I know it’s not likely, but anyone think my theory has a snowball’s chance in hell?