ok, turns out it was hydrolocked. the starter wouldn’t turn the motor even with the plugs out. i put a socket on the crank bolt and turned it some with the plugs still out, then tried the starter and it turned. we let it sit for a day with the plugs out. went back today, put it back together and got it to start. it runs and is driveable (i drove it back home from about a mile away) but has a bad knocking sound and runs a little rough. heres a link to video of what its doing. right now i think its a bent valve or collapsed lifter, but i’m not sure. motor gurus: i need your help. also, i’ll be doing a compression test tomorrow.
sounds like 1320’s when he broke a cam 
i really doubt its a broken cam cause the car seems to have its normal power, a broken cam would totally kill horespower
I’m not too familiar with 240’s, but I blew a headgasket on a BBC, put a lot of water in one cylinder…bent connecting rod.
you had HP before ?
talk to kolar sometime :burnout:
do a compression test. It should tell you if you have a problem with a valve.you could also use a vacuum gauge. there is a way to tell if you have a bad valve by the way the needle jumps on the gauge. what does the oil look like? drain it and check for metal shavings.
take off the valve cover :stick::dunno: maybe you might see something
my guess is a lot of water in the cylinders went into the oil cuz i’m assuming you dindt’ drain the oil out and change it…more than likely spun a rod or a main with all that water in there…
put a mix of motor oil, kerosene, and tranny fluid in the engine, run it very briefly–just at idle, then drain and fill w/ normal oil.
however, since you did try starting the damn thing w/o [puling plugs, draining the pan, chances are good you bent a rod.
a bent rod would throw things out of balance
if its got a bent rod… would it even run? the car seems to make decent power, it just has that tapping (eric from hybrid said he thinks its a valve cause its a fast sound). i’m going downstairs now to do a compression test.
if it’s slightly bent it could be contacting the side of the block and it would be out of balance that would explain the rough idle.
Bent… as in beam is not straight.
Not always visible to the naked eye, but enough to side load the bearing and wipe it out in short order.
I hope you’re not a machinist or mechanic!!!
:eek2: :eek2: :eek2: :eek2: :eek2: :eek2:
not to take over the thread but right now my 240 has a rough idle and runs kinda rough under 2500 RPM but above that it runs like it should the thing that is throwing me off is that it only does it sometime. itll run perfect probably 40% of the time then the other 60 is just runs like complete shit!
maybe we have a similar problem:dunno:
whelp, had to get some pipe fittings, but i did the compression test and the results are as follows
Cylender 1 = 165lbs
Cylender 2 = 160lbs
Cylender 3 = 150lbs
Cylender 4 = 100lbs
I’m thinking that it is a valve on cylender 4, but let me know what you guys think.
why? never see a bent rod hit the side of a block? depends on the clearance at the botttom of the block, for example: the stroked 2.4l 4g63’s have to be notched just like a 383 chevy would be…it is possible to have the rod hit the side of the block if bent and boy is it pretty too. i have no idea the clearance on a ka motor so i dunno
i think you should just sell me the car
maybe in the spring dude, but i need a beater for the winter and this thing was running smooth until this damn flood.