Ok so i have thus fgar replaced everything that u guys have suggested and still i got nothing through she did run for 10 minutes once and then died. I’ve replaced the fuel sending unit, fuel pump, fuel filter, fump pump relays (both of em) spark plugs, ignition coil, battery, alternator, all 10 amp fuses in the car and some 20’s, swapped out the ecu replaced the negative cable wire from the battery to the block, new distributor cap and rotor and still she will not start any ideas??? i’ve done everything u’ve suggested thus far i have spark and i have fuel yet she cranks and wants to go but won’t fire. please help i’ve attempted to read the ecu codes but the light on the ecu is burnt out so no luck with that and they want 300 bucks for the code reader, which just isn’t in the budget since all of the others weren’t really either.
That sucks, so you are in Cookstown eh? I’ve got some friends in Alliston perhaps some time when I go to see them next I will stop by and see if I can help you out. PM me your phone number and I will give you a call. ( Send your name too… It’s possible we may know each other already as I used to live down there)
How about a MECHANIC. Seriously guys, I love forums as much as the next guy for helping people out. There are a lot of knowledgable people, but is SON so cheap we can’t go out to a mechanic and get the problem diagnosed in about 30 minutes? Christ.
Well, I’m not a mechanic yet, but I am an apprentice and have been working in various shops for years. Also I have the diagnostic equipment and the knowledge on how to use them. I agree with the whole seeing a mechanic bit but at this stage situations like this will help not only the owner of the car but also myself in gaining the experience needed to do what I do.
Also, most of the people on this forum aren’t rolling in cash…most of this is torn away from us by insane insurance and monthly bills like rent, groceries and such. So if someone offers a hand to help you out it just may be your saving grace. Or, the guy could be some know it all wise ass and fuck your car up worse than when he started.
a mechanic would of been a great idea but it all started off with me blowing my alternator which (to me) didn’t justify the 72 bucks an hour they wanted to do it. Now i have been considering a diagnostic but the towing and then the cost of tht together no it ain’t much but…regardless. On top of all that i’m learning as i go here and the chilton’s manual is next to useless so how much would a maf be and can someone send me a pic of where it is so i know what i’m lookin for? the maf is actually what i had in mind just thought i’d try here to see what you guys thought. The timing has to be alright cause she did start once and ran for 10 minutes and when she was running she ran great idled fine no problems.
Well theres a test to test the light and it didn’t work so as far as the ecu being fried i thought so to so i switched ecu’s and same thing i didn’t try to read the codes off the second ecu though frustration i guess
Here are a few things that have caused problems for our S13’s
ECU -test with a known good one (even though yours ran for 10min)
check the 75 Amp fusible link in the fuse box behind the battery (grey one)
check the 2 bolts at the back of the right side of the valve cover (as you are standing in front of the car) #1 is for a ground to the firewall #2 is also a ground which will cause problems if loose or corroded
4)check that you have fuel coming into the cylinders or just fuel pressure in the rail - we’ve had an ECU problem which prevented the injectors from getting signal-again check ecu
LOL Ouch, you are going off of chiltions? PLEASE do yourself a favor and download the FSM from the FAQ thread. Its wayyyyyy ,more useful that that placemat.
nope no upgrades as of yet other then some speakers and deck a while back but i did have to remove the air intake to get to the alternator (only way i saw how) could that attribute to my problem as far as the valve cover bolts i did replace the one ground wire to the friewall as it was corroded havent checked weather i got fuel in the cylinders but i did switch the ecu’s and she fired once and ran for 10 minutes after that and then died i will check the injectors if the weather holds this weekend (sure would kill for a garage right about now i believe i replaced that 75 amp once its workin fine you loose your headligths if it doesn’t work (if i’m thinkin about the right one)
really huh? wow iat? dont think so… ECT? dont think so … MAP sensor ? we have those ? Naw we have mass air systems… Crank position sensor… ding ding ding , im pretty sure its a timing issue , has the dizzy ever been out ?
yea u need those other sensr , but only if u want it to run smooth