they use a cr27256a i belive , but your gonna need a daughter board to use it , because you cant put the eprom socket right into the kade ecu i dont remember exactly why but you cant, and from what i have heard they dont work to well , if you are on a budget i would suggest staying with the greddy emanage or get a real standalone (aem ems)… learning to program chips is easy and cheap when u have a honda, but not so much on nissan
with the eprom your gonna need much more than a chip burner
dont buy kyb agx - it may or may not be better but stock shocks/springs do a great job in an s13 for drag
spend that money elsewhere
kickass project keep us updated 
myself and Hurricane have a similar thing going on for a lapping day car. chassis was $450, full stainless 3" catback was $100 - just picked it up the other day and havent had a chance to do work work or buy parts yet… we’ll start a thread when we do
hmmmm, well, maybe i will stay with the e-manage then, ebay, here i come, lol. and no worries jammin’, i’ll be posting everything up in this thread as it comes along, and i’ll update it with pics soon too, well, just as soon as i find my camera, lol. and you’ve def. gotta let me know how that project turns out, next year i might switch it up a bit, but either way i’m thinkin’ it’s gonna be a full carbon fiber monster, lol, that should drop the weight a bit.
well, i’m officially over budget, lol, picked up an e-manage with the support tool, along with the injector/ignition harnesses for 320 shipped. i’m projecting 3500-3700 is what it will take to have it tuned, and running.
Which is still a dirt cheap project, relatively speaking… $3000 is a super tight budget, I’d rather go over a bit and gain some reliability, which is what it seems you’ve done.
oh yeah, i just wanted to prove that a decent turbo setup can be had for a fairly cheap price. i went cheaper where i felt i could, and looked for good deals on the things that i didn’t/couldn’t go cheap on. if i take the cost of the car out of the equation, then i’ve still got like $1100 to play with, lol.
Right on. PM me your MSN, we might have to do some zipping around up in the great white North.
well, i managed to put on the intercooler, and got it all piped, minus the section that runs to the turbo, yanked off the old manifold and exhaust. and only managed to snap off one bolt that holds the manifold on! lmao the intercooler goes in nice, it’s meant for an sr20, but fits on the ka perfectly. tomorrow i’ll be putting everything else on, manifold, exhaust, turbo. and try to figure out the vacuum lines, lol. sorry about the poor quality, the pics were taken with my cell phone.
I really hope your clutch, assuming it’s stock, doesn’t let you down.
That worries me much more than the higher mileage KA, especially if it’s gonna be dragged.
You never know though…good luck!
thanks! and it’s just an auto tranny in it right now, i’ve got the manual one sitting beside the car. gonna wait till i get a lightened flywheel and a better clutch before i drop it in, that way, it will last.
That’s ok, for a drag app, boosted cars love auto trannies, and I think the lack of turbo lag on shifts will compensate for the slushbox’s slow shift times…
There’s an FAQ (I think it’s on here) on improving the shifting of an auto tranny, it’s pretty easy, and it’d definitely help with your set up.
well, i searched and found the page on it, buuut, well, the link is broken, lol, guess i’ll search elsewhere, but, for now, time to put on my exhaust and such, i’ll post more pics when i get back.
That’ll do the trick! 
damn straight it will. lol, i think i’ll just run the auto till it blows on me, or might just keep it as a spare, haven’t decided yet
well, it’s been coming along since the last update, got in the emanage, and started trying to program it, man, what a pain in the ass, also got in the test pipe from bing, just waiting on the last few things to come in, and man, i’ve got to tell you, keith from HMR Performance was THE go to guy for this project. if it wasn’t for him, it wouldn’t have come along this fast, or smoothly. but anyways, like i was saying, once the rest of the stuff comes in, hopefully sunday, i’ll start putting the finishing touches on it, still have to run the lines for the turbo, and tune the e-manage, those being my 2 biggest problems, i’m hoping to have it ready for the drag races up here next weekend, all in all, it looks like i managed a drag car for a little over-budget. around $3350-$3450. cant wait to see what she’ll do on the strip, i crunched some numbers, annnd, at the crank, she should make around 220 ish HP before the intercooler
(between .052 and .077[engines efficiency] x engines cid, 146 in the ka’s case x (amount of boost + 14.7))
and that gives you your power output, so for my engine, i’m using .07 as the “efficiency” number, and i’ll be running 7 psi, soooo,
.07 x 146 x(7+14.7) = 221.77 hp
plus whatever the intercooler adds, a lil’ off topic, but yeah, i’ll let all of you know how i do at the drags if i make it.
where does 14.7 come from?
it’s the normal atmospheric air pressure, so, whatever you’re pumping into your engine, is on top of that amount, but you have to include it in the formula, in real life, we just take the 14.7 psi, as 0 psi when boosting an engine, but in reality, the air around us(well, at sea level) is 14.7 psi, dont know if that makes any sense to anyone but me, but that’s why i could never be a teacher.
He’s 100% right, you need 14.7 as a constant, because that’s atmo pressure… If you’re going to be very hardcore, you could find out exactly what atmospheric pressure you’re testing at and get exact numbers.
yeah, but i mean, if you’re gonna go all out like that, you’d have to figure out exactly what the engines efficiency factor is, which would require a dyno run, and would kinda defeat the point of doing it on paper, but it would let you figure out what kind of numbers you would be putting out at what level of boost.