98 mercury mistake starts when it feels like it

just as the title says, first alternator took a shit, changed that (all on a customers car), car ran fine for months afterwards so i doubt it has to do with this. The customer INSISTED to have the fuel pump changed just cause the AAA guy told him to, idc i did it, i has fuel, stick a flat head in the valve on the rail shoots out fuel. pulled out plugs, put them on a flat metal surface /ex. manifold, spark bridges the gap on the electrode, so WTF, changed up relays and checked all fuses

it only starts when it wants to, the motor will turn and turn but not fire, and during this it has fuel, so im assuming it would have no spark

it will run for 10 days, then not run for an hour, then run maybe again, then maybe turn off who knows

the car has an alarm, but with most alarms, to keep the motor from going they fully disable the ignition switch and the motor wont even move

im at a standstill, and so is this other person, i dont have the most advanced diagnostic equpiment and they do not want to take it to a garage to have it fully checked out at a costly price

electrical maybe? i was thinkin coil pack but ehh long shot maybe

let me know what ya think

Possibly a main relay?

GMs Passlock on Grand Ams and such, allows the motor to turn over when the passlock system is engaged, but it won’t start.
Fuel goes to the motor, and it sounds like it’s going to… but never will.

Just figured I’d toss that out there… since I know it’s a common problem on GAs, but I don’t know a thing about any mercury cars :\

what about a cam position sensor or a crank position sensor?

also could be MAF sensor on its way out

crank position sensor :tup:

what engine does it have? 4.6L I assume?

3.0 duratec? cam sensor? do you have a scanner. what the voltage of those sensors. Stop throwing parts at cars.People like you are the reason why mechanics are always on the defense

Stop telling people you can fix their cars when you suck at fixing them?

i do what im told, and what parts do you speak of? the fuel pump i was asked to change, wow one part fucking bravo, and no 2.5L duratec most pathetic 6 cylinder ever

no codes, i dont have sophisticated enough equipment to check if anything is on its way out, i was thinking both cam and crank sensors but ehh i dont wanna tell this person to keep spending money on parts

is it throwing a check engine light?

Any blinking SECURITY light on the dash? Could be one of the cars made with that faulty security system that doesn’t recognize the key and goes into safe mode.

The engine will crank all day but not fire, as it turns off the fuel injectors.

Check to see if there is a blinking SECURITY light. If there is, put the key in the ignition and turn it to ON position for 15 minutes. Come back, turn the key OFF and then turn the car on.

If that was the problem, get some MAF sensor spray can cleaner and blow a ton of it into the ignition cylinder. It is probably dirty/dusty and not contacting the key correctly.

Of course, this is all based on a SECURITY light.

Note: I figured this out after the same thing happened to my girlfriends '02 Oldsmobile Alero. It would crank, had perfect fuel pressure, had spark on all four cylinders… and then noticed the SECURITY light. I saw it at first, but figured it was because the car wasn’t on just like the rest of the dash lights being illuminated. Only when someone took the key out did we notice that light stayed on and blinked.

thanks guys for all the suggestions im gonna give all of em a try, and see what happens
one last thing: is there any way of checking out these sensors by unplugging them and using a multimeter to find a certain reading on each one??

id do a voltage drop over cam and crank sensor…crank try 1st if its rly hard to start…or map just check voltages if it doesnt get 5v…well u know wat 2 do

had this problem on my black svt contour when i swapped a 3.0 duratec in. just had a bad crank sensor. i know a few members on the contour boards that have had the same problem