Oh titty fuck
i hope you guys plan to ditch that balancer and get something SFI approved.
I think i just came
its coming along really nice congrats look forward to seeing it on the road!
good to see some progress. You guys sticking with that truck intake or do you have to get something shorter for hood clearance.
i don’t remember the v8 rwd option on that model jetta… must be one of those factory only options.
It will be switched to a standard LS1 style car intake manifold at some point.
Pfft.
Thanks dudes!
It came out great. The front suspension is going to be CAKE too. Actually have a shit ton of room under there. I am going to swap the left and right side spindles (they are symmetric) so the steering attachment point is forward facing, then I can mount a rack on the back side of the crossmember, just ahead of the oil pan and I might not even need to extend the mounting points on the spindle, and the tie rods might actually be perfectly level with the lower control arms as it sits too.
I didnt snap a pic but I will tomorrow night, of the car sitting on all four’s again! its about at stock ride height too, fitting a 29X11.5’ in the back and the stock steelies up front. Even with the stock spring/struts up front it is sprung VERY well even with a motor that weights twice as much as the stocker, so that goes to show you how much weight I took out of the car!
Yeah a LS1 car intake will go on to get a little clearance, and the truck oil pan I am going to just cut enough out of the bottom of the sump section to put the pan about 3/4" higher than the crossmember, then weld on a piece of 1/4 plate to close it back off. Even though I might loose some oil capacity there, i will make up for it with the remote filter mount and the oil cooler & plumbing.
Hood isnt going to close, no way. even with the car intake, the TB is too big and too far forward/high. the hood starts to slant down to the headlights about 6 inches behind (towards the glass) at the throttle body. So a cowl of some sorts is needed. Plus the 3" charge pipe will be at 90 deg or so tube right at it, so maybe 2" out past the tb and then the radius of the bend, so it might extend about 5 inches or more. If the hood would close on all but the throttle body and charge pipe, I might just cut a section of the hood out just enough to clear that stuff and mold in a 5" dia section of tubing, on the bend and graft it into the hood. It might look gay as fuck, but it will make people say what the hell is that bump for on the hood, and then when i pop the hood… HOLY FUCK’S will be uttered! lol
:lol
Chris that all you got…a van and a smoke bomb?
HAHAHA
LOLWTFRWDV8JETTABBQ
He doesnt stand a chance!
DC… 3/16" sheet & DOM tubing will be procured tomorrow afternoon, I will be in attendance and on location at 1 Get-Shit-Done Lane around 6:00PM EST.
over and out
KK
Looks good. How is the clearance behind the intake manifold? You can turn the intake manifold 180* if that will work better for you.
Oh, and get rid of that powerglide transmission, theres no reason to run that ancient shitbox when the PCM can control a 4L80e.
since I cut the entire firewall and a little section of the rain tray out, plenty o room! lol So the intake can face the windshield!? didnt even thing of that. Thats a great idea. I could put the WAIC inside the cabin at the pass side foot well and then run the cold side pipe through the raintray into the throttle body! put the turbo on the pass side right up next to the exhaust manifold too. I think with the car intake and doing that it has a shot in hell at the hood closing!
with the cross over pipe for the turbo, does it HAVE to be equal length, or does it not really matter. becasue if it doesnt I can put the pass side manifold on normal ways, and flip the other one and face it forward. then just make a simple J shape pipe off the pass side and into the collector, and run the other one across the front, or maybe even down under following the cross member to hit the collector.
If it has to be equal length I can just make the long one first and then measure the run, and make a semi loop on the other side to add a little length to the pass side run.
and the glide is staying, or atleast giving it a shot. it weights about 200lbs less and is a heck of a lot smaller. They can hold good power from what I hear too, so who knows. i got it might as well run it.
Cool. Going to Daves tonight to reinstall race car motor then be home to assist!!
DC
Equal length is considered optimal but definitely not a necessity. If you have a way to do it now and your only issue is pipe length then don’t worry about it being equal.
Because weight is a concern? A 4l80e will hold twice as much as that glide right out of the box. Your only saving grace is going to be your race weight, even then I think that glide is going to bite it the first time the s475 spools. It costs several thousand dollars to make a glide hold what this swap will make… I hate to see you do it twice. You’ll need a ~5k stall converter and you’ll have a whole 1500RPMS of powerband, believe me I’d love to see this work but it just doesn’t add up.
rgr that. I am sure I can figure it out, and get it damn close to equal anyways just need to get creative with some tubing.