I have blown 4 pinion bearings in 2 rear differentials in 3 days.
The aluminum bushings allow the rear diff no flexibility. Making the initial impact on the pinion very harsh.
If you have ever seen a 300zx (Z32) subframe. You will notice that the rear diff sit’s on rubber bushings itself. Both on the carrier cover and the pinion tube. And of course the sub frame. The 300’s push in excess of 300hp…hmm.
I am just wondering if anyone has had problems. I am pushing NO more then 220whp. IF THAT. And with one launch with both rear ends I instantly fried the bearings. I have brought this up with mutliple “experts” (if you will) and they all say bushings 100%. It makes sense to me.
So now, for the price I paid for aluminum bushings, I am tripling if not quadrupling, because I know need ANOTHER rear diff. Have to replace the bushings with O.E’s. Etc etc. Not me mention I need to drop the sub frame…again.
Its extremely agitating. So if anyone has some insight. I’d appreciate to hear it.
Although I must say. The feel of the car with the bushings did increase dramatically.
Im assumeing this is on an S13??
The diff is solid mounted to the subframe weither you have aluminum bushings or not, they should not cause any abnormal stress on the diff.
In S14’s and Z32 like you said, the diff is mounted in rubber, but its popular to replace them with aluminum. So their not your problem.
I’ve been running solid aluminum bushings now for a good year and I absolutely love them! When I replaced them I also rebuilt the axles, replaced the ball joints, bearings and installed an ES bushing it.
In the end, the only compliant I could come up with is that the resonating frequency is increased drastically since you remove the rubber etc… so you are able to hear every little sound or action the diff makes etc…
No matter how I lunch my car or down shift from say 5th - 3rd… I’ve never had a Diff issue and my diff has approx 271,XXXkm’s…
I really do not understand why I am having this problem then. Just to me it is all that makes sense really.
It’s one of 3 things
1; To much power, which can not possibly be true
2; coincidence. two rear ends with 260,xxx+ km’s couldn’t take it no more
3; bushings, pinion angle…something.
I have ruled out option 1 almost 100%.
#2 I hope is true, but seriously what are the odds. And if I do just slap in another diff I just got and it goes…well, wtf now?
The rubber dampener in my shaft is still good. My u-joint on pinion side has a slight stick to it. But would never cause this issue.
I am not bashing the parts, my install or anyone here. Just trying to get to the bottom of this. Because I do not understand one bit.
I see how everyone drives their cars. I will say I drive mine VERY fuckin hard…off the street. I do NOT drift. And the car has been on the road for less than a week. WHAT THE FUCK!
Not to be rude. but stop telling me it’s not this and it’s not that. Give me different ideas, different perspectives.
But what it has come down to is…I’m more than likely going to swap in the other diff (180,xxxkms) and see what happens.
BTW, both times…first brake stand, second brake stand…HARD gripping launch, blown rear end. well, pinion bearings.
Well only other thing I could possible think of would be something hindering the diff’s performance such as seized wheel bearings or brakes and its putting more strain onto the diff perhaps ? So when you beat on it, its heating up ?
I don’t really know what to say man as its differentially an odd situation. I’d assume it wouldn’t be an angle issue since the Diff can only sit in the Subframe one way so I doubt it could get jammed causing stress to the pinon etc ?
I’ve never heard of Solid Bushings ruining a Diff thou and this is the 1st time I’m reading anything along those lines. Most people either love them or hate them based on the ride/feel but never heard of them doing damage so it could just be coincidence and both Diffs were already on their way out.
I forgot to mention the first diff took the drivers rear wheel bearing with it…brakes are fine. Brand new Z32.
The only thing with the bushing I can see, is A; no movement and B; them being to tall or short messing with pinion angle. Although I seriously doubt that.
Leave it to me to get the most retarded problems out of cars…
My guess is that the subframe is not sitting high enough up on the mounts (chassis to sub frame studs) which has changed your driveshaft to pinion angle and you are there for overloading the bearing and its letting go.
My best guess anyways… I’ve never done alum bushings.
I’m curious… What happens when you cook the pinon bearings etc ? Does the Diff just stop working ? Do you hear a loud bang or any type of noise when they go ?
I’m wondering incase it happens to me but as far as I’m aware my diff is operating perfectly fine.
Where did you get your Subframe Bushings ? I’m running the ones Bing sells and so are a few other people I know all without issues.
fair enough, my fault, i didnt read you whole post
if your frying pinion bearings id say its the driveshaft causing the problems
mabie the carrier bearing on the driveshaft is shot or you just had bad diffs but that does seam weird to louse 2 diffs with the same bearing