I need to change out a snapped timing belt today. Obviously, I can’t drive my car to a shop to have them break the crank pulley bolt loose with an impact. If anyone has a honda crank pulley holding tool that I can use, I’d really appreciate it. I could give you some money to hold onto while I borrow it.
On a side note, this just happened on my new turbo LS. I was going about 30 when it happened, so my valves should be okay.
this is full circle, and not ly555is BTW
get a 19mm and a breaker bar with a large hammer. strike it hard and fast and keep taking quick strikes at it and it will come off. trust me it works everytime. oh ya and take your flywheel cover off and put a large screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel and wedge it. that screwdriver will break before that flywheel does so dont worry about it
oh ya patent pending via turbociv
you only need to use the screw driver while tightening the crank bolt back to spec. For removing the crank bolt i just place a 1/2 in rachet with 19mm socket and strike it with a hammer hard quick. The key is to be quick. and make sure you leave the spark plugs in so the compression will help hol dthe motor while doing this.
Oh, also it doesnt matter what speed your going when your timing belt breaks. You have bent valves whether you like it or not. Honda motors are zero tolerance motors so if it breaks then so does your valve train.
screw driver is just a little extra help, but you can def kiss those valves bye bye
[quote=“ly555is”"]
I was going about 30 when it happened, so my valves should be okay.
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neg…
ur prolly fucked… sorry dude,
honda motors are crash motors
ahhh, that sucks. i live in nc, and i just came up here to pick up this car in pa. i have a fresh head, new timing belt and tensioner, arp head studs, new head, intake, and exhaust gaskets AT MY HOUSE IN NC JUST FOR SUCH EMERGENCIES!!!
teh suck
It should be ok, i have had them break at 30 or a little higher. I have never had any bent valves, not saying you wont but GL.
it depends did the belt snap or “break”?
Do the old put the car in 5th gear pull the e-brake move?
moved
the belt “broke” while going 25-30 with minimal load. it happened so smoothly. i didn’t even hear anything. i just suddenly had no throttle or rpms. i thought it was electrical until i tried to start it back up. luckily, it didn’t break two minutes earlier when i was “testing out” my new shorter vacuum lines on the expressway.
thanks for the tips. i got the pulley off with someone holding the flywheel with a screwdriver, while i hammered on the bolt while turning it loose. i still need to pick up a new water pump, fuel filter, and some syncromesh mtf as long as i’m doing stuff to the car. i should have the car back together today.
so if i do have some bent valves, should i at least be able to make it back to nc? i can have my bro send up my fresh head, studs, and gaskets if need be.
[quote=“fullCircle,post:13,topic:25070"”]
the belt “broke” while going 25-30 with minimal load. it happened so smoothly. i didn’t even hear anything. i just suddenly had no throttle or rpms. i thought it was electrical until i tried to start it back up. luckily, it didn’t break two minutes earlier when i was “testing out” my new shorter vacuum lines on the expressway.
thanks for the tips. i got the pulley off with someone holding the flywheel with a screwdriver, while i hammered on the bolt while turning it loose. i still need to pick up a new water pump, fuel filter, and some syncromesh mtf as long as i’m doing stuff to the car. i should have the car back together today.
so if i do have some bent valves, should i at least be able to make it back to nc? i can have my bro send up my fresh head, studs, and gaskets if need be.
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it depends on how bad they are bent if they are bent. I guess the only way to find out is to try starting it. However since you continued to crank the motor over after it died also leads me to believe you have bent valves. get the timing belt back on and do a compression check. i dont see why the car wont run on 3 cylinders but if you have more bent valves chances are unlikely. Also im not too crazy about driving all that distance on only 3 cylinders either. The unburnt fuel in the cylinder thats not firing correctly will wash out the cylinder walls and rings causing more problems. This being an extreme case like 0 compression in that cylinder, wont be as bad if you still have a little compression.
my bro is sending out my other head today, and i have a ton of parts waiting to go on. i got the head off yesterday, and it doesn’t look like there’s any damage, but i guess that doesn’t really mean much without pressure testing the valves. i need to get my head hot tanked when it gets here. what’s a good machine shop around here?
[quote=“turbociv,post:14,topic:25070"”]
it depends on how bad they are bent if they are bent. I guess the only way to find out is to try starting it. However since you continued to crank the motor over after it died also leads me to believe you have bent valves. get the timing belt back on and do a compression check. i dont see why the car wont run on 3 cylinders but if you have more bent valves chances are unlikely. Also im not too crazy about driving all that distance on only 3 cylinders either. The unburnt fuel in the cylinder thats not firing correctly will wash out the cylinder walls and rings causing more problems. This being an extreme case like 0 compression in that cylinder, wont be as bad if you still have a little compression.
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or you could do the inteligent thing and disconnect the injector for that cylinder like I did on my 3 cylinder saturn. car ran fine for a bit over 10K miles with cylinder 3 dead with no compression. other than my heat not being so great and the lack of power it drove fine. suprising to me there was no abnormal bearing wear from being down a cylinder. it looked like I could replace a valve and go another 100K on that engine.
:funny: :lol: thats awesome.