Anyone have experience with fiberglass?

I need to make some body parts and I need some pointers, I have never worked with fiberglass before. I need to make the scuttle (dash and cowl) hood, and fenders. I will buy a nose as it looks really hard to make, the other parts look pretty easy. What I need to know is, how many layers I will need, what type of resin, the proper way to make a mold, and any other pointers you can think of. Here is what I need to make…
http://www.emkayusa.com/locost/glassparts.jpg

The fenders would be pretty easy, just a half a barrel with a lip
http://www.emkayusa.com/locost/57_3.jpg

See here, the dash is pretty simple, just a curved panel with a lip that the hood sits on, and maybe I can make it fiberglass down to below the steering wheel as well, then drill it to accept gauges and switches.
http://www.emkayusa.com/locost/96_3.jpg

IBLafengas

if you build that, I’m calling you to help me build one also

lol

LOL! IF I build it? It’s well on the way to being built, I’m almost done with the frame and suspension.

i have stuff like this built for me but its only worth it if you wanna sell it afterwards.

it costs like a G to have the mold produced but then the per part cost after that is good.

josh’s work will be better though, his work is top notch

it takes alot to make a fiberglass part then to modify an existing part

have fun making panels… can you get those panels to mold them then resell them?

dude those rear fenders look EXACTLY like trailer fenders. do they have to be fiberglass? they make pre made steel ones.
http://www2.northerntool.com/cat-1/166839+166841.htm

Make a precast form out of styrafoam…start to lay your glass sheets over and apply resin…build to a desired thickness…and let harden…pull styrafoam out and repeat.

Atleast thats why way i did them on the roadster we built when i was an auto body guy.

Yes, I had thought about using trailer fenders to make molds from, but I need to know how may layers and what resin, stuff like that. I don’t want to use steel fenders, too heavy.

for the fenders take trailor fenders, and cover them in plastic garbage bags and vacuum seal it so the bags are tight and somewhat smooth. start laying your fiberglass sheets with resin and do about 7 layers or so. let it cure/dry and then sand them smooth and add some bondo where needed.

i like using modeling clay to get the shape of the item you want then put fiberglass on that and u have ur part

Competition Car Composites: A Practical Guide

get and read this book. it will help you pick your materials and resin.

to make plugs, molds, and then production pieces is going to be a bitch, and expensive. especially that vented hood.

talk to the people on these forums, they can help.
http://www.fibreglast.com/fibretalk.php
http://www.compositeforum.werksberg.com/
http://www.racingcomposites.net/

Thanks for the links, I’m not making the hood vented so that makes it easier.

Wouldn’t a thin metal trailer fender probably weigh less than a hand made fiberglass one? You’re not talking carbon fiber vs steel.

I know my old Fiero’s hood was fiberglass, and that thing weighed a whole lot more than a typical metal hood.

on those sites, theres a couple guys that have done hoods, and did write ups on how to flange the mold properly.

i would think that the hood and the dash would be very difficult to make, and have them fit/look good, especially if you dont have a mold…

you said you were going to buy the nose, does the same place sell the other parts? unless they dont or are prohibitively expensive, personally i would consider buying them.

http://www.kenlowe.com.au/raceglass1.htm

they sell fiberllass trailor fenders…in single tandom or triple axle

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3743&familyName=Plastic+Trailer+Fenders&history=5wlb8l6i|top_category|categoryName~Trailer%2BParts^page~GRID^categoryId~291%402rxrs8lg|other|refine~1^page~GRID^categoryName~Trailer%2BFenders^categoryId~296

these are plastic

I don’t see what would be difficult, I can mock up a frame for the hood and cowl on the car using a wood frame and some thin plywood, put a plastic sheet over that, then some mold release compound, resin, a couple fiberglass layers, let it cure and pop it off the car, there is my mold. Then repeat on the inside of the mold using better fiberglass cloth. Then I have the entire shape from the back of the nose all the way to the dash, then I cut it apart where the cowl ends, bond in a lip for the hood to rest on, and bond on some brackets to the cowl, and hinges to the hood. That’s how it goes in my head, and how others have built parts for their Lotus 7 replicas.

Can it be that simple?

its just that in my experience with body work, doing something may be one thing, but doing it and making it look good/professional is much more difficult. if youre able to do it, then :tup: to you.

how are you going to go about internal bracing for the hood?

the reason i said id personally buy them if given the option is that bodywork-related stuff doesnt really interest me, and i would rather focus my time on the mechanical aspects of a project like that if i were doing it.

nope, never is.

You don’t have the setup to make a decent quality lightweight body. Aluminum would be a better option for you if you are going to make your own panels.

Why? because fiberglass if very heavy when hand laid (high resin/fiberglass ratio) Unless you have a vacuum bagging system will you be able to make it reasonably lightweight. Vacuum bagging requires a fair amount of mold experience to understand how your mold and plug behave under vacuum. Now you’re just opening a can of worms.

Possible? yes.
Easy for a first timer? not a chance.

Reading how to do it won’t be enough either, you need experience.

one-off parts will cost you more time and money to make yourself then what you can likely buy them for.

my $.02

as far as pointers:

1.) you need a heavy weave fiberglass (ugh, i hate fiberglass) arpox. 9oz weave and plan on 3-4 layers. You should rotate the weave for each layer aprox. 20-30 degrees from the previous layer. This ensures atleast some fibers are in tensile when stressed and keeps your part stronger and more rigid

2.) Epoxy is better for structural applications, but more expensive.
If you go with resin pick a polyester resin. Good epoxy can be found locally at U.S. Boats on NFB. It’s WEST SYSTEMS epoxy and is aprox $120/gallon. Use a slow hardner. The slower the cure, the stronger the part.

3.) go to www.fiberglast.com and seek answers to all your questions there regarding mold making and how to lay composites