are rear brakes supposed to lock?

SON240sx Automotive
1

i’ve got a 1990 240sx with stock rear brakes. i recently changed the brake booster and master cylinder. i bled all the brakes. LR->RR->LF->RF in that sequence. while the rear was jacked up i let the car run on 1st and with the handbrake released only the rear left side was spinning. rear right was locked. so i bled the rears again only. now the opposite happens -> left rear is locked up and right rear now is loose and spins. so i left it like that.

now i took a test drive and i can smell the pads burning (on the rear left which is somewhat locked)…parked in the driveway and i can see smoke coming from the rear left wheel. went out to test again…and the brakes bite really hard…but the pedal is sooooo spongy and i’ve already bled them. any ideas? i may try bleeding again tom.

2

try servicing ur barkes
maybe the slider pin seized…
it would give u a spongy paddle feeling

and u a suppose to bleed the brake starting from RR>LR>RF>LF
unless u have a RHD…

3

you kno what, ur right…i do remember one of the slider pins were hard to move…so i jus left it…and i bled them according to the fsm…but it i have to check if it was for rhd vehicles

thanks

4

If you have a LHD 240 you should be bleeding RR,RL,FR,FL farthest from the brake booster to closest

5

Sorry didnt see that he had metioned that

6

why in that sequence? isn’t it farthest from the master…unless nissan is different… let me know.

7

yeah it musta been from the rhd models. but anyways chek ur pm.

DK

8

remove the caliper clean off the slider pins give it a light sand and greas it up and put it back together

9

ok…i rebled them…from farthest to near. RR-RL-FR-FL…it seems okay…i’m a newb at bleeding…i used a vacuum pump. the pedal feels a bit stiffer than b4 but i think it can go more stiff. i’ve also did grease those damn slider pins…everything seems all good except for one.

pulling the ebrake and then releasing - i’ve noticed the lever on the rear left caliper which the cable pulls on gets stuck…it’s supposed to have some play…or moveable back nd forth…i’ve greased it/penetrating oiled it and played it back nd forth…the caliper didn’t come with a return spring so i used the return spring from my other extra caliper but it doesn’t line up since its from the opposite side. so i tried bending the end of it to fit…it works and so i put it in and assembled everything together.
without the wheel attached…i tested it again with the rear jacked up…pulled ebrake…checked if lever moved - it did…released ebrake…checked if it returned back - it didn’t…so it was kinda locked…i pushed it back with a screwdriver w/hammer. and then it was free to spin again. i’m thinking of gettin the correct return spring since the one i’m using doesn’t seem to work well enuff to return the lever back. any1 have extra return springs for the REAR LEFT caliper?

(woah, i type too much bs…o well)

10

why in that sequence? isn’t it farthest from the master…unless nissan is different… let me know.[/quote]
this is the most common way to bleed the brake
it all depends on how the brake fluid routes around the brake system, there are ones that need to be cross bleed(which one line from the MC, goes to LF, and RR brakes, and the other goes to the RF, and LR brakes(never done one b4, but they are out there))
this is a safty feature that in case one side of the systam fails, the other side still have the power to stop the car

and some cars like acura RL, and Lexus LS(couple cars that i’ve done) need to follow a special procedue to bleed the ABS unit first