congrats on crossing a finish line :bigthumb:
Great news & nice build. Hope to be riding shotgun in it eventually.
Woot! Congrats on finishing up the car. Now you get to take it out this weekend and beat on it. Perhaps you’ll even put it past 6,000 rpms :kekegay:
Doubt it…he’s got sand in certain places ::greddy:
Well, since it doesn’t smoke, or sound iffy, I suppose I don’t have an excuse now do I?
:bsflag:
i’ll believe it when i see it
Well, now I may have an urgent issue. Last night I drained the oil and found coolant in it…indicating a possible head gasket issue…
Facts:
Car does NOT over heat
No oil in coolant
Overflow tank is a bit low, radiator is normal
Compression good
NO SMOKE AT ALL.
None in combustion chamber or on plugs
I did not re-torque the head studs after being heat-cycled (but I did do the standard three step torque sequence a total of three times while reassembling). What are my chances that they simply need re-tightened? I’m aware that it’s possible to leak from water jacket to oil passage without making it into the combustion chamber…but I’m hoping I don’t have to pull the head and replace the gasket. I just don’t see how it’s possible that 180whp would lift the head…unless the fact that they weren’t retorqued after heat cycled
Drain it, flush it then re-torque. If it does it again, teardown. Might be a warped head?
how much coolant do you think came out? I’ve never had to re-torque any arp’s. Did you pull all the plugs to see what they looked like?
I forgot to pull them last night, but I will tonight. It’s not whitish milky like a severe failure, just looks like dirty oil. No oil in the coolant though, not low, and the missing coolant from the overflow tank could easily be that that I only bled the coolant once, it may have pulled a little in to equilibrate.
I have read several times that you follow ARP’s torque specs, but repeat it three times. On top of that I have heard builders say that once it’s been heated up to perating temp once, you should re-torque once more.
How much coolant was in the oiyeee? Re-torque the ARP’s again, re-fill with coolant/oiyee and let her rip.
I don’t think I lost much coolant at all, like 2-300mL (out of the overflow tank…the rad was still full to the filler neck)
The oil was darker than clean oil, but had a very fine cloudiness to it…NOT like the light chocolate milk looking shit I’ve seen before when the HG fails altogether. When I drained it last night, I put some into a clear container so I can check for separation…I may even bring some into work and centrifuge it so everything separates. I’ve never had cloudy oil like that in my own cars, so it let the wind out of my sails a little.
Could be just heat cycling man. Don’t let it get to ya. Re-tq/re-fill and let her rip. I am sure it’ll be fine…
The first time I drained oiyee from my motor, (this was also after 20 minutes of driving) it was darker then clean oil and this was on a brand new motor too.
did it have any cloudiness to it?
any updates big guy?
I believe it was a false alarm actually. I took a half dozen 50mL centrifuge tubes home from the lab, and took one sample each from the questionable oil, the filter, and three random samples from the gallon o’ oieee in my garage.
I then checked each ones optical density in a spectrophotometer, followed by centrifugation to check particulate level…they are almost IDENTICAL. 
I suppose it’s fine…and gearhead…I checked the plugs…and NEVER in my life have I owned a vehicle that presented such a clean plug/combustion chamber. Sweet.
val, as you said, he still has some sand in certain parts.
…must be nice to have a lab at your disposal!
Oh I know…I should go upstairs and trash his lab :kekegay: