Nice. Go break in that bottom end.
car started cutting out the other night when we were on a test drive. steve deduced the problem was due to improper timing so he was going to adjust that tonight. should be running good from now on.
It starts and idles just fine, drives perfectly as well…but it dies when coming back down to idle…but I still have both cams at 0,0. I need to adjust them slightly…either that or up the IACV duty cycle, or even pull some timing from the decel area of the low cam map. Given that there is NO leaking, no weird sounds, no bogging…it has to be timing related.
I would prefer to get this sorted out tonight/tomorrow, as I would like to drive it to Hybrid…a little more break in can’t hurt…otherwise I suppose I can use my AAA miles to tow it. Either way, assuming Hybrid stays on schedule I’ll hit the rollers on Friday.
Lightened flywheel?
yes, i believe it was like a 7.5 or 8lb flywheel.
Those can be annoying. I think I ended up doing some crazy tinkering with the timing to cure a similar stalling problem when using a light flywheel in a high compression ITB set-up.
i havnt had any problems with my fidanza 7 lbs
I’m sure Steve will take note of this and check it out. There just seem to be more setbacks than anticipated.
The extra drag on the rotating assembly due to high compression and/or agressive cams coupled with a light flywheel tends to cause problems when coming down to idle.
Is this car obd1 or obd2 with a conversion to run obd1? If obd2, I have an oem USDM ITR ecu that would run the set-up perfectly until/if the switch is made over to the ITB’s.
OBD1 w/ Neptune RTP. Running a p72 basemap right now. I never even considered the flywheel being an issue. It’s only 11.1:1 CR…I’ve only heard of that happenening above 12.5:1.
Just keep tinkering with the base idle. My old setup; 13.3:1, crower 404’s, 7lb flywheel (sold to lilgreenb18), titanium cam gears, and ITB’s. I never had one idling problem after it was set.
http://media.putfile.com/itb-hatch-idle
turdteg’s gsr, 81.25mm ctr, skunk2 stg2, flywheel, cam gears, 42mm itb’s
all im saying is you can make it work. what throttle body is it?.. do you have water going to the fast idle if its stock? first things first, jump the 2 wire for diag mode, unplug the iacv and set base timing with the idle screw above the TB inlet. once thats done, then continue working the problem. if it has to idle at 900-1000rpm, then so be it.
TB is stock, running the FITV in it’s stock configuration. IACV set I can do (I did it once already…it isn’t really needed since I can modulate the IACV activity via the ECU…basically tell it how much air I want to see), but I can no longer jump the service connector. My gas/brake pedal controls the CEL now. Key ON, press the gas once to display codes, press brake to clear them.
I had it mildly happen with a 11.5:1 2 liter set-up. Would only not catch some of the time.
Definitely a fixable problem. Pretty sure it was just a matter of advancing timing around the desired idle range on my particular set-up (2 liter, 13:1 ish compression, skunk stg 2 cams, TWM ITB’s, 7lb flywheel).
So last night I fired it up again, idled exactly as stock…roughly 1.3K cold idle…at full warm ~850rpm…perfect ( I even let it go for a while). Rev it up, idle drops smoothly to base and doesn’t flutter.
Unplugged IACV, idle fell to stall, exactly as expected. Adusted uncontrolled idel to match target setting in Neptune…perfect.
What was interesting to me was the fact that there was no faint white smoke at all…even when revving. There was some when I test drove it a few days ago…now nothing. It sounds 10X healthier that it did before I rebuilt it…so that is comforting. I did NOT touch anything otherwise since the other day. I’m going to drive it some tonight to see if it has to be in gear to stall like it did the other night. Tuning appt set for Tuesday next week…
I guess for this Sunday’s point auto-x I may have to drive Jeff’s POS. I think he drives some shitbox Integra. WhoTF owns one of those things anyway? Junk.
woo hoo! it’s about damn time you got that shitbox running. it still may not be a bad idea to degree the cams appropriately for your drive out to hybrid. i guess you’ll find out tonight if it’s actually needed though.
sounds like you’re finally starting to remove some of the sand from your vagina. you think my car’s a shitbox now, just wait til you drive it! i know you’ll love the loose feel that the power steering gives it. don’t forget about the tugboat sized steering wheel. before you forget, go register for the event…bitch.
thats what i like to hear. :bigthumb:
Uncontrolled as in IACV unplugged, so that when it is plugged back it in immediately jumps to target setting. I had them only 50 or so RPM off from each other…I didn’t think it mattered. The test will be when I drive it tonight…I hope the issue isn’t dependant on it being in gear.
Well…the verdict is in:
Here is the setup
81mm P73 pistons
P73 crank
P72 rods
01spec ITR cams/springs/retainers
ARP everything
Comptech Intake with Icebox (3.5 inch velocity stack in the fender)
mildly P-n-P’s P72 head
P72 manifold WITHOUT IAB functionality
Basically it’s an OEM rebuild…like a bone stock ITR without the better IM
Yesterday I finished the break in and tune
RESULT!!! 179.44whp / 136wtq (oops had a type in there)
Not too bad, but there is easily another 5 peak with a better manifold and no cat. Overall I’m pretty happy, especially considering I did 100% of this by myself in my basement. I’m hopeful I can break 190-195 with the ITB’s back on, as the only change. I’ll upload the graph tonight…but like a moron I printed a run that was a few from the final one…I did 39 runs total.
Good stuff, glad to hear she is running.