Do you remember old cars that had to be manually cranked to turn the engine, before starter motors were invented? Thats like my car. I have to jump start it every morning to get it going, and its really a bitch. As far as I can tell, after driving the car, it can stay off for about 8 hours and still be able to start. Past that, it needs a boost.
I have a few questions:
Accessories must be ON to be drawing power, right? So if nothing is on… what could be draining the battery?
Short of testing every circuit in the car with the ignition off, is there anywhere in particular I should be checking first?
Im using an Optima yellowtop that has been relocated to the trunk, could the repeated boosting have damaged the battery, causing it to lose its charge quickly? If so, is there some way to test the battery?
This is an S13SR btw…
Im going to post this here and on freshalloy, and hopefully get some insight.
Im having the same problem,
On my 3rd battery. New alternator.
Took out my stereo fuses for amp and capacitor…Still died.
So i figure either my pager alarm has a constant lead…
Or my alternator connection that I had to re-wire because it was shredded is draining it…Im going to disconnect my alarm for a couple days and see if it lives. If it does than I know its the alternator connection.
I just wish I had a DC amp meter so i could just test each power wire when the car is off to see which is draining it?? AC meter is FuXored.
Once its fixed im gonna get ANOTHER battery under warrenty, and if JoshYo has a warrenty Id suggest he exchanges his once he finds the problem, because everytime the battery dies it loses a percentage of power from the cells.
I hate having to hook my charger up EVERY god damn nite.
Soon, Ill find the bitchin problem… :twisted:
beautiful, thanks for the suggestions… at least I have a tasklist to get going on. The only question that wasnt answered there was, is there some way of testing the battery? I must have boosted it 30 times now, so I would not be at all surprised if thats what the problem is. Its still under warranty, so I think that will be my first step.
I have a battery tester. Or go to CT, buy a battery hydrometer. Its 7 or 9 bucks…Then pop off the cap on the battery, dip the meter into the cell, it sucks the liquid in and displays a reading, match it to the chart and it tells you if the cell is dead. Test all the cells. If one is dead its ok, but suggesting even if one is dead to replace the whole battery. Ive also got a digital tester at my work… But to drive out to mississauga vs. buying a cheap re-useable battery tester, it aint worth it…
Good Luck. Oh, and come with Nik to the timmies meet on wednesday so you can take me for a ride in the SR for the help, lol… Ive got an eliminator in case you die, or get a boost off someone.
haha sorry to just jump in on this thread… but
i got a drain problem 2…
cars off but over 2 days the battary drains…
got just a regular battary… been jumped 2x.
i had someone do the harness for my SR and one ground was missing on the igniter chip… so a buddy of mine suggested i just ground it by the chip and i did… im wondering could this cause the drain im having?
To see if your alternator is gone:
-Start car and put a voltmeter on the pos(+) and neg(-) terminals while its running. It should read 13.8-14.4 If its under 13.6 or so, the alternator is bad a.k.a not charging the battery.
To see if the battery is dead:
-Buy a hydrometer like i said above.
If neither fail, there’s a constant drain…
-Disconnect stereo fuse see if it doesn’t die
-Disconnect harness for SR20 see if it doesn’t die
-Disconnect any alarms or power draws and see again…