“Takeoff” probably wasn’t the best term for taking off from a light with a stock 240sx, but here is the issue I’m having:
When you go to move the car, it sounds like it’s dying a bit as you let out the clutch, like it’s going to almost stall, unless you give it a slightly excessive amount of power (2000+ rpm). It’s manageable, but a bit of a pain in the ass when everyone in front of you wants to start really, really slowly. It just doesn’t seem to like starting from a stop for some reason.
I just had the thermostat changed out on the car (which fixed the heater not working and some low-power issues I was having), and it wasn’t doing it noticeably before, and now it seems weird off the line. I guess it’s possible I started to drive like a dumbass in the last few days, but I’m thinking there might be an issue someone might have a suggestion for? :/:
make sure ur Maf is good, try cleaning ur IAC valve, spray some throttle body cleaner thru there or even clean the inside of the throttle body by lifting the flap too…good maintenance.
I cleaned the MAF and TB a while ago, but not the IAC valve, I heard that was retarded to get off? I’ve been trying to wait for a decent day to do stuff, today was nice but I had to work <_<. The only thing with that is that it is idling fine, it’s just when I put the pedal down a tiny bit.
hmm…how’d u clean the MAF and how long ago before this started? I heard they can be really fragile if you try to clean them since the (maf sensor) is in the unit.
My friend’s CA engine was running bad cuz of maf sensor that got fried from cleaning it or something, the IAC valve is easy to take out, u just need to squeeze this coupler thing on the tube and slide it down so u can spray into the tube leading to your throttle body.
hmm, it’s odd tho, if u cleaned the TB a while ago I wouldn’t really suspect anything new if u clean the IAC valve they’re very relative.
**try swapping MAFs with someone and see if you feel a difference, if so then you may need another MAF bro.
I cleaned it with some electrical contact cleaner spray, and I wiped it extremely gently with a q-tip once, but it looked clean so I moved on.
I had a bunch of corrosion on my Trans Am’s MAF, so it needed a serious business cleaning.
I would think that I would notice issues in all places, not just barely above idle with a MAF too. I dunno. I need to call my mechanic tomorrow anyways, so I’ll talk with him. I should probably replace the plugs/wires and stuff at some point. How much would a set of plugs/wires/cap/rotor cost? Like, decent stuff, not pewp.
Nah, this is a 240sx. I had a Trans Am before but had to sell it to some cheap bastard when gas was supposed to hit $1.50/L and I needed money for school. Sadface.
My mechanic tends to be ok with me, and my whole family brings their stuff to that shop so we’re cool.
Man the idle air control valve isnt hard at all to take off, Its held on by four bolts, Im pretty sure 12mm… Just did it a while back. But im still having issues so i have removed my whole intake manifold, get it clean and repaint it
Talked to the mechanic guy over the phone and he said it sounded like it was missing, and to bring it to him for a quick drive. We’ll see how that goes =/.
I see yolu are from st. THomas. I do not know who your mechanic is but I have only had great experiences with Bridgeview motors. I would definatly give them a try. Another place you could try is Pro-Tech Automotive on Progress Drive also in St. Thomas. They are great with electronic stuff and have a great reputation.
but it doesn’t sound like a serious fix is in order.
