My 97 legacy 2.2l lost fueling all of a sudden last night. Lucky for me it was a mile away from my fathers house, so once again CRD on here towed me home. *he has towed every car I own atleast once so far. lol
OK ignition on at the fuel pump plug I see this: ( release clip on plug facing up) so it is like this:
Also something odd I found is that Pin 6 LtBlue and Red wire the ground isnt as strong as the other two. Example if I use the Pin 2 for the 12v and use ping 4 or 5 it shows 12V, but grounding to pin 6 it only shows 10.75V. Dont know if it is by design or what, maybe be it is resisted somewhere in the wireing.
It is a 50/50 shot that it is the fuel pump or the relay buried under the dash. Also the haynes manual says check the fuel pump fuse, I dont see one listed in the manual and I dont seem so find one on the internet either.
i am thinking that since I have some voltage to the back it probably isnt the relay and I should just put the pump in and see what happens.
So its gamble on 100$ pump or a 20$ relay and a pain in the ass digging undeer the hood…
If your car is AWD, you have a factory fuel temp sensor as well hence the weird readings and extra wires.
Those older cars used to run the fuel pump off terminals 1 and 4… black wire, and black wire with red stripe. B-R being the 12V signal.
Test/replace the relay first. They do go bad. Basic quad pole relay.
Note…You need to test for voltage at the pump clip at immediate key-on. The PCM primes the pump for ~3 seconds, then kills voltage until the motor starts. Turning the key on, then going in back to test it will typically yield no voltage signal as the prime sequence completed.
Man I didnt want to get under the dash and hunt for that relay. But its a normal 4 pole relay, like I could use a regular old square back 30a automotive relay?
I know about the priming, I had my brother turn the key while I had the volt meter on the terminals. Pin one is dead as a door nail.
Now I read a thread about a guy with the same problem, he replaced the relay and still didnt show pin 1 voltage, he then replaced the pump and it worked, even without the voltage? Who knows about that though.
So Pin one is powers the pump for a few secs to prime then pin 2 runs it constant? and pin 3 is the fuel temp sensor?
Thanks for the info so far.
240- yeah its right under the rear hatch carpet, doent even have to take a seat out or anything.
There are only two wires for the FP. A black wire for ground(ter 4), and a black wire/red stripe for the voltage input(ter 1). All other wires are for fuel temp sender, and fuel level sender.
The ground passes through a single harness clip before going to chassis.
The signal wire passes through a pair of harness clips in between the FP and FP relay
The FP relay is a four terminal clip, green in color IIRC, and going by your description purposes looks like this when facing the end of the clip, snap clip facing up
1 2
3 4
Terminal 4 is the feed to the pump, #1 is the voltage in from the distribution block, 2+3 are the relay signal wires form the PCM. #2 is yellow, # 3 is violet or purple.
#3 heads to terminal 32 on PCM harness clip B84(light blue), and is the controlled switch(ground), #2 is a voltage input for the relay, feeds of fuse #16
if you want to check continuity of the control switch at B84 on pin #32…while looking at the harness clip, tab facing up #32 should be second row down, 16th pin over from the left(or 2nd one past the central square plug section)
The fuel pump draw off a main fuseable feed under the engine compartment. Should be one of the large30amp fuses. Linked as #2, but don’t go by that number. However if that was blown alot of other stuff wouldn’t work as well.
Let me know if you need more…
FP relay doesn’t use that typical relay 87a relay. It’s a four prong, parallel terminals.
Well I put 12v to the correct fuel pump terminals and the pump works. So I said the hell with finding the relay and ran a 30 toggle switch and a fuseable link inline from a constant 12v source. flip the switch, pump is on.
BUT, it still wont start. I pulled a plug and I have no spark.
So my question is, would the other 2 connections on the fuel pump relay have anything to do with cutting spark?
Or, am i looking for something else wrong, crash sensor or who knows what. No CEL’s lit, and I dont have a subaru scanner to see what codes if any I have.
The FP relay is single function only. Two wires for the relay field, two for voltage feed in/out to the pump. It’s the only thing the relay controls.
Couple questions for you:
1)Have you checked to see if the PCM is getting power/turning on? Do you have a CEL in the dash with key-on position? You say “no CEL’s lit” but the CEL should be on with key-on until you start the car…possibility that your PCM circuit has no power…
is your car AWD or FWD?
3)does your car have a factory alarm on it?
Let me know those answers and I can whittle down the wiring for you for better diagnostics
I will have to check again tonight and let you know when i put he key to on. From my memory key on, I have a red battery light steady, and if IRC 2 other red icons, no CEL if I remember correctly. I will check in a few and report back.
It is an AWD, 97 Legacy Brighton (bottom of the line edition) I dont have a tach either to see if the Crank pos and cam pos are sending anything when it cranks, I was told that the tach would react a little when you crank it.
Brighton didnt even have a tach, so no way on the alarm! lol
yeah I turned the key to on, and I get the brake, battery and what not but no CEL at all.
I will have to check that tomorrow after work. What exactly am I looking for on that connector? 12V across the board? assume that half is + and half is -?
Pin#1 Black wire, direct to chassis ground
Pin#2 Light Green, Pin 63 on main PCM connector
Pin#3 Yellow/Blue stripe, pin 1+2 on main PCM connector, MAS, and fuel injectors
Pin#4 Yellow/Red stripe, Power feed for o2 sensors, data connector, emissions control solenoids
Pin#5 Red, power feed from distribution block main 30a fuse
Pin#6 Red, power feed from distribution block main 30a fuse
Pin # 2 is the one to check…that should have power with the key-on position. That is the power for the relay field, which closes the circuit and sends power to everything else…
Pins 5 and 6 should have battery voltage. Those, plus pin #2 on the FP relay, all feed of the same distribution connection in the main fuse box.
I have to see if I have a pinout chart for the AWD PCM…
Fucking poped the new one the second i put it in. I have 12V on the feed side and .36 + volts coming in on the other of the second (looking down uynder the hood on the driver side) green 30A fuse.
Relay or fuse…sounds like you’re talking about the main fuse(or am I mistaken)
the .36 volts is interesting. unplug the main PCM clip and test for it again. possibly capacitive discharge from pcm, then again it could be from any crossed module.
If you look on the drivers side, top of the fender next to the battery the fuse box there. looking down on it its the second (closest to the firewall) FLM type I think it is called 30A fuse. The tall green ones that snap in with female spade terminals inside the green housing and a clear plastic cover to view the fuse element.
Yeah I will disconnect the FP relay, PCM one you had me probe out, and anything I can see under the dash and the short goes away I will plug them in one at a time and work that way.
If everything is unplugged, and it still has a short who knows.
Where is the PCM anyway in this car? Maybe the computer is fried. This thing sits in the summer time, so it is a prime mouse house… so who knows what could have been chewed threw into and could be shorting out.
