I just replaced my clutch in my 1999 E36 M3. When I press the clutch pedal it slams to the floor, almost effortlessly. There is no resistance what so ever. Is this a bleeding issue or do I have something else going on here?
When you removed the gearbox, did you open the bleeder to relieve the residual pressure before dropping the slave off the gearbox? Those slave cylinders are finiky as fuck. Very easy to blow the seal out on them while changing the clutch by having the push rod come out too far.
Were/are you 100% sure you got the push rod engaged into the fork dimple in the bellhousing?
Pedal STAY on the floor?
What clutch did you put back in? Aftermarket crap(like UUC) OEM stuff?
There’s also the chance that you cycled fluid from the master if you didn’t relieve the pressure. The system is a weird closed loop system that has fluid bypass for hot expansion of the fluid. It can be a bitch to bleed w/o a power bleeder, then other times cause no fuss at all.
I didn’t open the bleeder to relieve the pressure prior to removing the engine/transmission. My wife got in the car to steer it, when I pushed it out of the garage, she pressed the clutch without the transmission being in the car. The piston/rod shot out of the slave, but did not leak any fluid. The rod is in the divot of the fork. I replaced the clutch with a Sachs OEM replacement. The pedal is stuck on the floor unless I pull it up using a lot of force.
Are you sure you reassembled the slave correctly, and that the slave’s dust boot seal wasn’t torn?
Any fluid leaking out of trans? Sounds like a bad slave to me. Did you bleed the slave?
Wait…you pressed the clutch without it being installed in anything and the piston did NOT shoot out?
Uh. What.
There’s no fluid leaking out of the transmission. The piston did shoot out of the slave, but its not leaking. I didn’t take the slave apart yet. I’ve tried to bleed it, but I don’t think I did it long enough or even correctly.
People always bitch about how hard they are to bleed.
I’ve personally never had an issue with a pressure bleeder. Just pump it up to 10psi or so, crack open the bleeder, wait til you stop seeing bubbles, close it, pump the pedal a few (hundred) times, crack it open again-no bubbles? done. some bubbles? repeat.
I’ve never had to repeat.
If it’s still not holding pressure that fluid is going SOMEwhere… :rofl
I’m going to have to get a pressure bleeder form some place. I’ve been trying to do it the old school way…by hand 
That’s probably why I have not had any success.
What do you mean by hand? Like with a partner? Never done it that way but it sounds like it would suck. A lot.
BTDT, slave issue. Either it ruined itself when the piston shot out or its not in the fork or something.
Oh man you guys think it might be a slave cyl issue?
Yes, it sucked much…I’ll give it another shot this afternoon, if that doesn’t work I’ll order a new slave.
I now have the clutch pedal back. I took a C-clamp and compressed the slave, then pumped the clutch. I took my time to ensure the piston/rod was properly aligned with the fork. The clutch is a little “spongy” right now, but it pops back up effortlessly. Thanks for your advice!
keep bleading it then , thats why its spongy if ya dont the pedal will creep back in turn ruining your cluch again . just keep a eye on the fluid or watch for leeks to be sure ya didnt tear the seal . or maybe thats why its spongy as its not sealed
make a pressure bleeder at home depot with an extra res cap for <$20, or buy one for $40.
either way it’s one of the best tools you can have IMO.
The seals still good. I got lucky this time.
I have to order some more random parts tomorrow. I’ll be sure to order a power bleeder. I’m going to have to replace my rotors soon, so this till will come in handy. I appreciate everyone’s advice!
IIRC, they carry the Motive Power bleeders right at G.A.P. in c.park. I have one and works quite well. Can pick up some ATE fluid while you’re there and do a brake flush on the cheap.