My buddy is having a clutch problem
edit (and I am developing it too, new frigin’ clutch)… this is how it goes
in N it roles back no problem, in gear w/ clutch in it doesn’t, and you have to really push, I mean REALLY push to get it in gear… it’s the same for all gears.
Any thoughts???
for me… it is just hard to put in gear… once it is rolling, there is no problem shifting…thoughts
this is sitting at the bottom so I had to move it up… anyone know… I am going to FL at the end of the month so I want to deal with this before I cross the border…
did you chack the fluid in the master cylender
uhhhh… Chris… did we?
I have the same problem because my Slave is leaking, evey 2 weeks I have to top off the clutch fluid and i’m fine.
Check the level first of all, then maybe bleed your clutch.
DRE
Just check the fluid, and bleed the clutch. If that doesn’t fix it, it’s the slave or master, and they easy to change.
good luck
no i kow what it is, if you’ve changed the fluid ect. and still problems and you can see the slave push the pin in and out of the fork then you need to do something that you do everytime you change the clutch.
adjust the petal, it must be too low, go under the dash and you will see a threaded pin and nut attached to an upper part of the clutch petal, you need to loosen the nut and then tighten the pin going to the master cylinder, so that there is more force on the clutch when it is pressed down. if you need a more detailed response pm me.
its pretty simple if you just go under and look/think about it.
Your clutch isnt fully disingauging.
that clutch dampener you speak off, my mechanic just told me he thinks mine is gone. he said you cannot get a new one and the clutch line needs to be rerouted to get rid of it. what do you guys think?
ask racer240, he’s taken his off and it seems to work fine.
I have an extra one if you want it
i re-reouted it np, … well … one of the lines stripped on the way out so i replaced the section.
But very easy to do you dont need any more parts, (i upgraded but whatever).
just remove the line going into the damper (box attaced to passenger frame rail, near the slave cyliner), then remove the line going into the hose going into the slave cylinder. Now slowly and carefully, bend the line that was previously going into the damper so that it almost matches up with the hose. … then match them up.
YOU’RE DONE!
you well fell more response in the clutch but you will feel more vibrations (hence the reason for damper)
and if you are really hard core, get a steelbraided hose to replace the OEM rubber one being used. i just got a new stiffer rubber hose. ($40!!! <-- way too much)
thanks racer! but from what i remember there are quite a few lines going into the damper box, how do i know which to use?
there are 2, and input and an output.
it’s quite obvious which is which because output goes into the rubber hose which goes into the slave.
there shouldn’t be more than 2 because if you look at your master cylinder there is 1 line coming out of it, and if you want to be 100% sure. just follow that line and get rid of everything else.