Alright ill start with a little back story. Car is a 1993 Dodge stealth twin turbo. 2 years had the engine rebuilt for a painful $12,000. Car drove for all of 2 months before the clutch the mechanic didn’t tighten properly completely burned up.
Then installed a new clutch and flywheel; lasted for 2 weeks. the car worked great until one morning i started it and the pedal was really weak but still returns.
Found a leaking slave cylinder so replaced that with a brand new oem. Worked for 3 days until on my way home got into it a bit and the car locked me out of all gears.
Next spent $250 for a brand new master cylinder. started the car had pressure for 2 minutes if that before it locked me out of the gears again.
I even replaced the whole clutch line just to make sure that wasn’t leaking with no effect.
the clutch will work if you pump it repeatedly but as soon as you stop it losses pressure immediately.
Basically the point of this thread is for some advice or better yet some help diagnosing this issue. Any help would be appreciated and probably stop me from balding early in my life.
Did they change out the clutch fork and fulcrum ball when they replaced the clutch? I had a similar problem with my DSM and that’s what it ended up being. The clutch fork was bottoming out on the bellhousing which caused the clutch to not engage or disengage properly.
First of all, you got hosed on your 12K engine, unless it’s super built or something.
Second, can you verify that the pedal is actuating the linkage? It’s a very simple system. Does this car have a clutch damper? Remove that, then re-bleed it. What method are you using to bleed the clutch? Might want to try a pressure bleed or vacuum bleed. If you can pump it up and it works, it’s unlikely that it’s the clutch itself, simply the hydraulic system…
Ya i know i got royal screwed on the rebuild: it’s not even built what so ever. Took the guy a year to do a stock engine rebuild and i payed for parts, thats 12 Grand in labor and oil.
Back to the original problem. The arm and fulcrum were changed a year before and seem good. I didn’t bench bleed the master as it was hard enough just getting that thing in there. I want to try vacuum bleeding it but don’t know how or where to get a unit.
i bet your fork is bent. you can see the slave and fork on that car, have someone press it while you watch, its probably bottomed out on the transmission case.
Haven’t been able to yet from the little i can see without pulling the transmission; It moves fine and when i first start the car it shifts fine then within a minute loses pressure.
