Clutch problem revisited - Part 2 - HELP!

SON240sx Automotive
1

THE STORY
So here’s the deal. I’ll recap from the beginning.

After a drift track event where on mulitple occasions
I did clutch-kicks.

I maybe did 5-7 cluck kicks at the event…all within
maybe 5-10min apart

After the event on drive home, I was climbinb a hill
and I would floor the gas and the revs just shot up but
car didnt move

After a few more weeks of driving, it was evident my
clutch was slipping I assumed it was the clutch.

THE WEIRD PROBLEM
But then last week I went to take the car out (it hadnt
been driven for more then a week) and I went to reverse
and the car just lunged back. I put it in 1st and
sure enough it lunged forward. At which point I figure it
might be something along the clutch lines, so I figure I
bleed it.

Well another week goes by. It’s now today, and I decide
to bleed the clutch. I only did the master for now.

TIME TO BLEED IT - STILL WEIRD PROBLEMS
Basically I topped the resevoir off, had my dad pump the
clutch a few times, hold it on the 5th or 7th pump, and
when I unscrewed the valve fluid would come out.
Close the vlave after a few seconds, and then re-did the
procedure all over again.

I was told not to fully take the valve screw out but even
when I unscrewed it a bit, fluid would come out the
opening and not through the top of the valve.

As well, i would notice the pedal arm near the cylinder
slowly moving back in as the valve screw was open.

DRIVING
Well, anywho finally took the car out for a spin.
It seemed to drive fine.

The clutch was grabbing. Maybe a little earlier then usual
but it was grabbing and holding on

However, a few times that I stopped fully at a stop sign,
and then started to go again in 1st, as I was releaseing
the clutch, the car bucked (at which point I would push
clutch again and put it neutral) I would put it in 1st
again and then it would drive off normally.

As well, a couple times that I tried to downshift from
3rd to 2nd or 4th to 3rd or whatever, the pedal got stuck
a couple times.

In anycase, the car seems to be driving except for
those two problems: bucking, and pedal getting stuck.

Help!

2

I used to have that problem after clutch-kicks, then i stopped them and its been fine, although, once in a while my pedal sticks, so ive made it a natural routine to pull the pedal back with my foot on most shifts, otherwise if it does stick and i dont notice, once i shift my rpms go but not my acceleration because the clutch was rubbing…

Its been fine lately, just gotta make the clutch last thru the winter until im ready to do a swap.

Could the problem be a spring or something not pushing the pedal? I have no idea…

3

I think i did the bleeding procedure wrong. :pat:

Gonna have to try again properly tomorrow. I had enough for one day.
And my bro/dad aren’t exactly thrilled about sitting in the garage with me
pushing the pedal for 15-20min. :frowning:

I’m just going to take the bleeder screw out completely, and fully drain
the cylinder. My old clutch fluid is dirty as shit.

4

Did you drain from both the slave cylinder and that block thing?
You should do the block then the slave cylinder otherwise you might get air between the block and the slave cylinder.

5

Or just bypass the clutch damper completely

6

I misunderstood the whole bleeding process but now I have it down pat
so I’ll just drain everything (slave and damper) and refill at the resevoir
and try the whole bleed process again.

7

I will bet that bleeding will not help!! Allthough it is a good idea to put new fluid in it. Brake fluid is hydroscopic as i am sure you know but when used hard like at a track and old fluid that has alot of water in it will move the release points around. Also if you took enogh off your clutch disk at the track you may have to adjust your pedel. Many times people have asked my to change there clutch for them and i would mearly climb under the dash loosen the 14mm jam nut on the rod for the clutch master and tighten or loosen it depending on what it is doing.
If the clutch is spining then you want to turn it to the drivers side if it is hitting the floor and not returning or not releasing the clutch and you grind then you want to turn it to the passenger side. you may have to do it a few times to get it right but it takes less then 5 min.

8

is it getting worse as it gets colder?

I’ve seen a host of S13s with sticking pedals caused by leaking slave lines.

One of which you couldn’t even drive in the winter time without warming the car up long enough to unstick the clutch.

Not enough that it leaks a lot of fluid, but enough to get air and crap into the lines.