clutch recommendations for boost?

Spec sucks bro

^this.

I would agree and dissagree.

I have the Spec S3 in my car, and Yetti has the same in his VRT.

Our cars come stock with dual mass flywheels that weight a ton. We both have autotec light weight ones now. his chatters a little, but not bad. Mine chatters in reverse bad, but 1st isnt any worse than his. The pedal pressure is MUCH lighter than the stock VW setups. In his car it is a little easier to drive than mine. Since I boxed up the clutch for, mine is more like an on off switch becasue the stock one flexes alot with the stiff pressure plate. Also my car has a slight off idle sputter/bog so its a pain to drive around the city and forget about starting on a hill! Its a tuning issue more than the clutch for me.

Mine has 18K on it and is on its way out now. WOT shifting into 3rd I had it slip a bunch of times. Rolling into power and letting boost build, I havent had it slip at all. From the on/off feel it has now I have been slipping it more becasue of the tuning sputter I have for some reason. So it is what it is. I ran it on my K04-022 setup on the jetta for a while and now about 2Kmi on the GT3076R setup. I also had some minor oil and coolant leaks which may have contaminated the clutch and cause it to slip, who knows.

It was cheap ($300 or so IRC when I got it) held the power. fine. I have to pull the trans again in the car, and I will be putting something new in for a clutch when do all this. So I am also looking around now. I havnt had any rivit issues with my clutch, like people say they have alllll the time with SPEC clutches. I will prolly go with a different one this time around just to try something new.

+3 for south bend clutch

ive had a few different clutch setups, and have installed and driven both the stage 3 and 3+ Specs on a VRT. the first Spec3 broke pretty bad. the buttons were destroyed, it ate the flywheel pretty bad, and the spring baskets split. all under 20kmi. the 3+ is still in the car, has about 10k on it and so far he hasnt had a problem with it.

now you mention contaimination. unless its organic fluids dont really absorb into the disk. AKAIK the spec3 is a cera-metallic material. so if it got fluid on it, it would burn off rather quickly (amd’s S4 clutch had that occur) slipped for a few miles after the clean up, but it holds great now.

On Topic, i personally like Clutchnet clutches. im not sure if they have something OTS for you, but its worth calling or emailing Igor at Clutchnet any way, they could piece together a custom application

www.clutchnet.com

626-448-7432 : Igor

or Sales@clutchnet.com

I just checked out the clutch net site. Prices are great and they have a ton of different setups.

Lets see some technical answers here, to help out the OP, me and anyone else pick a clutch.

Whats the advantages/disadvantages of a solid hub VS a sprung/dampened hub disk? Apparently a solid hub dissipates heat better, so you can slip a solid hub on launches but not totally skill the pucks. I also assume that a spring clutch takes some of the shock out of the drive train. Or would it actually increase the shock after the initial engagement and cause DT stress, by the spring absorbing the impact then releasing it all back into the drive train?

I am looking at the 4 puck solid disk and the red pressure plate for my jetta. I dont care about chattering or drivability too much. I want it to hold, and disengage properly to allow my trans to shift nice.

I also wonder if I can get the flywheel surfaced, and just get a new clutch disk, and reuse the Spec high strength PP.

I would think a solid hub would be worse on the drive train because of the chattering.

Is it the chattering inside the drive train that stripps gears and what not? or the motor/trans shaking from the chattering? What i am saying is if the mounts were stout, the motor wouldnt move all over and absorb/release energy as it chattered from a launch.

I see the solid hub kicks your gearsets ass. I read an article about how the harmoics go through the clutch and spank your gears.

sprung for me.

thanks, lots of great info here. Yea solid hub is not going to be a good idea… I didnt get to call Clutchnet yet but i talked to Comp, no kit for my car, they could have a disc made for around $170 but thats not going to help me. Talk to Southbend and they actually have a listing for my ap:bowdown said best clutch they have is there stage 3 , sprung, 4 puck rated 420 at the crank. $400 not bad price either. Don’t really know anything about southbend but it all sounds good.

solid hub, 4puck is going to be brutal. pretty much instant on… mainly because the puck arrangment. if you want to hold the power and still maintain some streetability get the setup i had.

EZ-lock 6puck (red, sprung) and the 2x red pressure plate… took a serious pounding.

but i wouldnt run a 4 puck. most agressive single disk i would run would be the Quick-lock(solid hub) 6puck, 2xred PP.

Thanks for the info. I was looking at the same thing you have actually. I figured a 4 puck would be a new ball game and be yet one more step away from streetability.

I am calling SPEC to see if they can just sell me the clutch disk. If I can just get that for less than $200 I will just do that and resurface the FW. If not or its more than $200 ill get the red sprung 6 puck and red PP like your talking about.