Clutch slipping.....HELP!

Hello all.

I reacently bought a 1992 240SX LE, and what a nightmare.
the clutch has been slippign since day one, I have now replaced, the master, the slave, the clutch and removed the dampner box. Yet it still builds buy back pressure and causes slipping.

as far as I can tell, the slave seems to build up pressure, and casuing the clutch to never fully engage, and I have to get under the car, crach the bleeder valve on it and it releases the excess pressure, and the clutch works fine.

what I have noticed is it only happens if the car gets very cold then I drive it till it is at normal temp, then it slipps, I get under, crack the valve, and it drives fien, no problems. I have no idea why it keeps doing this, I fear it may be related to the cold, and if so I might have a 240SX for sale.

any help or personal experance in the matter would be appericated.

Sounds like your pedal adjustment may be off (there are threads around about this, may depend on where the pedal is when your clutch slips) or the bleeding process hasn’t quite worked. Make sure to carefully break in your new clutch too.

Just a few thoughts, good luck.

I would say theres air in the system maybe you should re-bleed it. Nissan clutches should be vaccume bleed, the 2 person method doesn’t work.

Lets say in a normal system, you press the MC and the slave moves a distance of X

Now say theres air trapped between the MC and the slave, you press on the MC, the slaves only moves a distance of X - 1 because there’s air in the system, the MC piston pushes the oil, then the oil pushes that air bubble displacing it a distance of Y, then the air bubble pushes the oil downstream, then THAT oil pushes the slave.

Here comes the tricky part. When you close the bleeder and let go of the pedel (or in this case you’ll have to pull it back up by hand). The MC draws in fresh fluid from the res. along w/ some fluid from within the line. Everything seems hunkie-dorry, but wait pretty much all hydro clutches have the MC at the highest point in the system. What does that mean you say, air rises, so the air actually winds its way back at the piston of the MC. Thus always staying there. IN THEORY, you can get rid of it but it would require a lot of pumping LOL, a better way is vaccume bleeder, takes 20 mins, literally

If you need help call me (Matt) at 416-567-8520, I have a vaccume bleeder…

Wrong section.