1998 S-10 2.2L 5-spd. I thought it could be due to the very cold weather and the fluid getting moisture in it. So i flushed all the fluid, put new stuff in, and then bled it. It wont disengage still. The pedel feels like shit. Theres no resistance to it. I checked the pedel linkage and its all fine. I’m not sure how to check the Slave on these. If i remember correctly its internal. The clutch is only a few monthes old. The kid i bought it from had it done. People have suggested a bad throwout bearing and release fork. Where should i start?
keep bleading untill you recieve a pedal, common knowlege but then again it is 533am and im only 1 drink down
Try this I had and still have this problom on my stealth, I replaced the slave and the it felt like it was engaging better but really wasnt, so the clutch still slips like hell and is hard to get in gear, plus there is no return on the pedle and the engagement point is almost to the floor. So I’d like to get some more answers on this prob as well.
^ You had the opposite problem on your stealth, your clutch wouldn’t ENGAGE.
As for the S10, I would assume even if the slave is internal you should still be able to bleed it. I found this on some yahoo Q&A forum.
Follow the line from the clutch mastercylinder down to the transmission to the slave cylinder. There should be a bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. Sometimes the slave cylinder is inside the transmission so if this is the case look for a line going into the transmission near the bell housing" The big part that looks like the end if a tuba.Near that line should be a bleeder screw or nipple. Make sure the clutch master cylinder is full. And don’t let it run out of fluid while doing this. Buy a clear piece of tubing Like the kind they give you to bench bleed a brake master cylinder. Have a bottle half full of brake fluid and another one full with new fluid Make sure you use the right fluid. On a chevy it’s almost always Dot3. the full one is used to refill the mastercylinder. Attach the hose to the bleeder valve.make sure it fits snug Submerse the other end of the hose in the half full container of brake fluid,Crack open the valve with the proper sized wrench About one full turn and have someone pump the clutch pedal slowly. Make sure the end of the hose stays in the fluid at all times during this process. And absolutely do not let the fluid run out of the clutch master cylinder. This can be done fast and easy with 3 people so you have1 person in the car,1under the hood keeping an eye on the fluid level and one underneath watching the hose till they see no more bubbles coming through the Hose either way this is at leasta 2 person job. When all the bubbles stop coming throught the hose and all you see is clean fluid. Tighten the bleeder valve" don’t over tighten" Pull the hose off, top off the clutch master cylinder with brake fluid replace the cap and test it out. Get a feel for the clutch at idle or low speeds. It should operate like it’s supposed to if the clutch itself is good and you don’t have any hydraulic leaks in the clutch system.If you follow these instructions it’s almost idiot proof
If it won’t push fluid out the slave, you obviously have something wrong with the master. If you get it properly bled but can’t see what the slave is doing it may be a slave issue, or clutch/throwout bearing related. If the slave really is internal the bad news is you have to get in there to find out.
look at the slave cylinder piston as you have a buddy stomp the pedal. If it does nothing, either bleed or replace it. If it is moving, then odds are you have a busted shift fork. Throw out bearings don’t typically cause shit to not work unless it completely fucking explodes. More or less your TO bearing will become noisy and annoying before it shits the bed.
Heres a follow up. The throwout bearing was the cause. It was stuck back on the main shaft of the tranny. When the slave pushed it back it never moved forward to engage the clutch again. Thanks for the replies guys!
when the slave pushed it back? Is this a pull type clutch? Or did one of the sides of the TO bearing break off where it meets the shift fork?