So shortly before I parked my car for winter my clutch went again, I guess it didn’t like hard launches at the strip. (which seems wierd for a stage 4 clutch) but anyways. My pedal is right to the floor, only about an inch of movement if not less. I checked the fluid in the resevoir and it was empty, so I put my car up on the hoist to see if my slave blew out again but it didn’t. My master has no visible leaks under the hood. I was wondering if the fluid will leak into the interior of the car? I couldn’t see any visible signs but I never really looked that hard. Anyone have any ideas? Also I realized, never go with SPEC and never go stage 4 for a daily driver.
Well im having the same thing happen to me… The fluid leaked out but no signs on firewall or interior… It turned out to be the hard line from the master to that little box under the car… I just tightend it up and all was good… Im still having some problems so i usually have to pump the clutch a few times before i can take off in the morning.
seriously take that whole box out …
I put in a used CA slave a while ago when mine went on my 180sx …
but over the winter I am going to change to a new slave/master/SS line MtoS as I cant stand changing one thing then another thing goes soon after … so do it all at once seriously …
What is that box all about anyway? And do you just bend the hardline to make it connect to the rubber hose?
That is the clutch damper box. It just give you less kickback through the pedal. However i took mine out and have noticed nothing different.
And if you can ever bleed the clutch with the box in you are my hero. Most people take it out because they have problems bleeding the clutch
yeah it was a nightmare bleeding it with that thing in …seriously …
Get yourself steel braided clutch line and you should be fine. Normal rubber lines tempt to expend , if replaced with steel braided makes your pedal quiet stiff and eliminates the damn damper box(a bitch to bleed +1, on all 5 clutch jobs i’ve done).
Also when u say stage x clutch , do u mean the disk ? the clutch kit plate etc?
By stage I’m just going by what SPEC considers their stages. Mine was stage 4, 6 puck designs, heavier designed pressure plate. I don’t know the word I’m looking for exactly but the springs that are built into the disk itself… there are none on a stage 4 from SPEC. It was supposedly good for 425 ft/lbs of torque.
You mean an un-sprung hub.
Don’t buy spec. Go RPS My sprung full disc is good for 550 FT-LBS and still is soft enough to daily drive
RPS FTW! Can’t go wrong with them.
gay…more pucks doesnt mean better holding capacity!!! more disks does and the the strenght or rate of the spring hub!!
the best setup with a killer holding pressure ans strong pedal feel, is a 3puck copper metalic, with a Stock GTR pressure plate!!!
search www.NICOCLUB.com as these guys sometimes have some good used stuff for sale.
i got a TODA 11kg flywheel and a 75% used triple puck copper metallic last yr for 350 USD… best deal ever!!!