Ok…so here is where the boost/reliability thing comes in already. Less than a month of boost and I cracked my manifold already. It was a used manifold that was probably already cracked when I got it. It a custom made log manifold out of either stainless or mild steel. Anyways…the manifold cracked along a weld, about 1" long. I hear that nickel welding or something is the best…can anyone on here help me out? It isn’t hurting the spooling or anything…as a matter of fact I can’t even hear it. 2nd question…does the manifold need to be removed to weld it? God I hope not…let me know…is this a JJ’s job?
depending on the location of the crack will determine if the manifold needs to be removed. but more than likely yes. I can weld it either way. if you take it off it will prob cost next to nothing to fix it. just time.
let me take a pic…brb
Do you have the high nickel welkding or whatever…from the location of the crack do you think I will HAVE to take off the mani? Its RIGHT on top of the manifold!
Would you recommend drilling holes at the end of the crack? BTW-the crack ends where you can see, it doesn’t continue on to the back of the manifold.
yea weld it…
that can be welded on the car but from the looks of you need to take that bad boy off and have someone reweld the whole entire thing
yeah i see a real real real real bad pin hole in the runner across from the crack. … id take that off and get it all re-welded
:ugh: was that welded with a car battery? Some of those welds don’t look too great… maybe while it’s off you could have Jeff touch up some of those boogers.
looks like a job for hybridynamics
LOL…you think those welds are bad you should see my charge piping…same guy i bought the kit off of did both items i guess. I will prob take it of and get it all rewelded…thanks…Anyone hear anything about using a lot of nickel or anything? Will this happen again or are log mani’s prettu tuff?
logs are tuff if welded right …
cool, thanks…next question…
I currently have a Garrett T3 50 trim on my car now. I want to switch to a Garrett Super 60 becasue my power dropped off after 5300rpm. Would a garrett super 60 bolt EXACTLY inplace of my little 50 trim? I have a 5 bolt exhaust housing, and I don’t want to have to change my downpipe. What do you guys think?
shitty welds shitty meterial shitty tuneing
thats the shittiest manifold i have ever seen…those welds look like a chcik from baldwin i use to know
scrap it and have jay or jeff make you a nice tublar manifold out of some 321 ss or at least some 16 guage mild steel a good designed manifold with quality welds wont crack…
myself…dunno how big the turbo you are running but i brace all my turbo
no room to center the turbo in the logs? insted of running it to the left??
The manifold I actually like except the welds…not tubular but oh well, not looking for a race mani.
There is no room to center the turbo in the F/H series cars on a log.
yeah should bolt up 100% the same as long as you buy one with the 5 bolt exhaust housing.
dude not everyone builds a race car … let him have his fun, his car not yours. Plus in an extreme heat event all turbular manifolds crack somewhere … just takes longer with thicker material and better welds but eventually they stress crack.
aw thanks man…I was going to say something similar…looking more for reliability than race at this point. I’m sure my turb setup blows alot of other peoples first setups away…maybe even some advanced.
my started as a D series…lol hf mani it was sweet
i heard the hf manifold works great for the d series people…did you see the hatch on craigslist for super cheap…pics with it…look under cars/pittsburgh craigslist.com
I agree totally
you should have fixed that way before you even thought about putting it on. I personally would scrap it b/c im sure you are lean on fuel and way retard so its heating that mani up way hotter than it should. Shit, i could make you a mani better than that.