Spray is a bit to hard on a stock engine/drivetrain my my liking (except on an LSSIQQQQQQQ) But done properly it can be a nice setup
w/e i and many others are still runnin strong. and its not like forced induction is any safer.
LOL your going to use Pat’s car as a reason not to do spray? 100k+ mile motor, no window switch, wrong spark plugs, no timing retard, no tune, and someone sprayed it with 87 in the tank by accident. His car is an example of how forgiving Nitrous can be if anything, gaurentee if it wasnt for the spray on low octane gas it would prob be still alive now. Get the facts in order before you make retarded statments.
That being said, i love my nitrous. With prob only a 50-60 HP shot, i dropped a 1/2 sec off my best time ever and picked up 7mph… with a 2.0 60 foot. Im hooked now.
far from case/point. as stated mine shows what you can do with a little. do it right and you’ll live a long happy life on the bottle. As my 403 will. at least you took a few months to figure this out. The asshattery of Nyspeed never ceases to amaze me.
And to put this fire out right now, I knew i dind’t have the safety shit. I didn’t care to have the saftey shit. I enjoyed the shit out of my car. I’m sure I’ll enjoy the extra 100hp n/a this coming season also. it’s only a motor, there’s plenty of them around. you want safe? Buy a rubber room.
not to mention he was talking about cooling… lol.
the ONLY example of a f-body i’ve seen overheat was firehawk853’s BUT he was tracking a supercharged car. of course it’s going to overheat…lol
hey it overheated when the supercharger ate the fan harness too!!!:roflpicard:
forget the msd stock ignition is more than plenty.
it vas a “hot” situation! ha-ha-ha
spray the house down
Spray is definitely bang for the buck like stated. I would first get leakdown #'s and compression test #'s to make sure your engine is healthy. You don’t want to spray a dying engine. Also be sure to get tuned on the spray, you can run a switch on a chipped ECU to switch between to maps, one for N/A and one for spray.
Also don’t change the ignition on the car, honda ignitions for good for around 5-600whp I believe and many people have issues with MSD setups. GL :tup:
:edit:
I replied to your PM, shoot me another if you have any more questions :tup:
I agree with the other folks that said you have to treat nitrous like anything else that adds power to the car. If the engine, axles, tranny, intake/exhaust, ignition system or anything else can’t handle that power/airflow, however it’s made, you need to take care of those issues first. You also need to maintain the vehicle more strictly any time you add power if you want it to hold together and I agree with AShort that getting compression/leakdown numbers prior to adding nitrous or a turbo kit etc. is a good idea so you know what condition your engine is in first. If it’s not so hot, you’ll want to change your plans.
We won’t put nitrous on a customer car without a window switch, but I know many people get away without them. It’s not that hard to avoid spraying at too low an PRM, but I feel there’s too much of a risk of damage when spinning the tires and hitting the rev limiter while spraying if you don’t have one.
A fuel pressure cutoff switch isn’t a bad idea, but I like the newer kits which can adjust flow as nitrous pressure changes to make using nitrous more consistent, or shut nitrous flow off it fuel pressure drops too far. I’m all for anything that increases consistency.
I recommend monitoring EGT’s or CHT’s when spraying a good amount so you know what heat range plugs you really need or if you’re spraying too much for the exhaust valves to take the heat etc. This isn’t necessary if you’re spraying a small shot for the setup you have.
The bigger the shot the more you need to watch how it’s being distributed to each cylinder etc. so just like a turbo setup it gets more involved the more power you’re looking for.
It’s probably not a bad thing that people are wary of nitrous. That way they’ll be more inclined to implement it correctly and less likely to have any issues.
I was going to spray mine before I had my issues… if anyone is interested I have a NX wet kit collecting dust… I’m open to offers on it…
nitrous works great when setup correct. i had a 40 shot on my gsxr 1000. cheapest hp available.
It’s the cheapest power adder out there, provides more torque than other power adders, and hits HARD. Hypereutectic pistons and nitrous oxide do not get along very well with each other. Sure, if you’re running a 100-shot, and aren’t a bottle junkie that has to refill a few times a week, you’ll probably be fine. I would suspect the condition of the engine, and mileage, would also affect how nitrous oxide and your particular engine get along. In my opinion, on a stock, or mild bolt-on engine, becoming a bottle junkie will roast your engine before its time.
On the plus side, there are some extremely powerful, durable, and fast nitrous cars out there. The main difference is that they are running purpose-built nitrous engines. I would imagine you could do very well with the stock crank (I’m referring to LS-Series engines…I’m not sure if the LT-Series cranks are as strong). If you plan on running insane amounts of nitrous, say, a 200-shot or more, I would definitely go with forged rods and pistons. Intake manifold selection is also critical when putting a purpose-built nitrous engine together. LS-Series OEM intake manifolds were not intended to flow fuel. If you’re not careful about installing reliable safety systems, and are not familiar with throwing a proper tune on a purpose-built nitrous engine, bad things can happen. An overly rich nitrous/fuel mixture (4.5:1 to 6:1 is a safe range) can flow a lot of liquid fuel (i.e.; NOT atomized) past the intake valves in an incredibly short period of time. If nitrous flow doesn’t keep up, or the nitrous/fuel mixture is stupid rich, cylinders will fill with liquid fuel. We all know liquids cannot be compressed, so I’ll leave it to you to imagine what would happen if you tried this experiment in your engine.
Even if I had a 50-bolt main bearing set-up, and a forged UFO-metal rotating assembly, you couldn’t pay me to run nitrous. When you hit that button, the results are instant, and, compared to other power adders, violent. The strongest of engines can take the pounding dished out by nitrous for just so long…at least that’s the way I see it. Of course, when I get my N/A ass kicked in a race against a car on the bottle, I suppose all of the above won’t mean jack.
I just read this whole post and didn’t notice it was pretty old, but I’m curious to what spray setups you LS1 guys are running? My uncle has a Yenko Camaro that he used to spray and said I should do the same to my WS6, but I never really thought about it seriously until this thread.
Run a 100 shot, its what i do… what are your current mods? stock if i remember, correct me if im wrong… i do have a magnaflow catback sitting in my garage not being used 
Loudmouth 1 catback is on currently and SLP lid/filter waiting to go on come Spring. Did you buy a complete kit or did you piece one together yourself? And this is Jim right?:smash2:
going fast NA is were its at 
I just pulled apart a stock LS1 block for mock up. roc guy street car :snky: Trex, with a TNT 2 nossle ring kit. Car was fast as hell. 150-175 all the tie. I heard it had 200 jets in it a few times. Lost #7 like most do. But stock LS1 will take 200+ with supporting mods, and a good tune. But you need a progrissive or staged setuo for that much, to keep the tq spike down. Thats what kills stock pistion in time.
Not sure on LT1s as much, Call Paul at PM performance he went 10’s on a stock LT1 with spray and stock heads he had ported. I think he did it with his GF LT1 car also.