ahh, well, its not nec bad advice persay. I think hes over exaggerating it tho. lol.
going from ~250whp upto ~500whp on demand can be tough for some people when its new.
ill admit i dont know all that much about installing stuff on cars but i can definitaly handly my car i’ve owned a different camaro before this so im used to the cars power and handling.
If it’s a auto the tranny is kind of a weak point. The motor will be fine with a <150hp shot. Once you get to 75-100+hp you need to think about some way to retard timing.
why the hell do people say this? just because you run nitrous doesn’t mean it’s going to blow up. For crying out loud. :fail: i’ll let you know when my motor starts making less than 65psi on startup and the compression drops below 240. 1 bottle down at 100 shot and many more to go.
^^^ god you are so hot… when can we go for a ride (w/ spray)
if you do it properly its plenty safe, and cheap. with good parts you can get all the parts you need for around $1,000 ($500 for the kit (NX GM EFI Race is a real good cheap kit, good solenoids, WOT switch, nozzle, jets, bottle, lines, relays, mount) when i sprayed my cammed LT1 i had to get a walbro 255 pump $99, plugs $20, heater $100ish, guage $10-$15, then you got $300 left for a tune and a window switch. add $40-$50 per fill up. 100 shot should last around 4 good track passes and then will start to fall off in MPH and ET (about 1mph, .1 per pass) ive had my car for almost a year now and have filled the bottle 4 or 5 times, plenty of track and street use.
as far as saftey goes you can spray 100 shot all day as long as you do it saftley. we have a couple junky customers running 150-200 shots on stock LS1 blocks and theyve all held together fine. you just have to make sure the AFR is safe. its not uncommon for the jets they recommend to be a little on the aggressive side.
WHY HASN’T CHOKO POSTED IN THIS THREAD??
:lol:
ok with nitrous here’s the deal.
To get to the point where you can be using it you need a few upgrades first. For both safety and performance gain using it.
The LT1 works notably well with a dry shot as there is a specific kit for it. Ask badass i’m sure he can agree 
Af far as upgrades it’s your basic intake an exhaust the more air you can suck and and push out the higher your gains will be. i.e. a 75 shot yielding 100hp at the wheels instead of 60 hp.
so go with a good intake setup and a good headers back exhaust.
then as far as safety goes get a step or two colder spark plugs or retard the timing a bit. personally i prefer the colder plugs.
the points that are worry points would be the drive train the transmission and such. As you make more power you start to get more issues you need to beef up.
in the long run a nitrous setup is more expensive. in the short term it’s wayy cheaper. It’s also instant gratification…
what kind of mos do yo have done so far? what are the details about your car? how many miles?
your best bet is to do your homework and talk to the guys well known for using juice on the board.
how so? its easily 2-3k cheaper than any other FI setup. including a lot of refills.
ok let’s break it down:
kit plus the RIGHT extras: 1000.00
cost fo bottle refill 5.00/lb x 10lb = 50 x 16 weekends of racing in a summer. 800 a year.
say you race with the same setup of using juice for 3 years minimum.
3400.00 and that’s saying you only use one 10lb bottle a weekend and saying that your only into racing for 3 years. and saying you can find someone to fill a bottle for 5 bux a pound still. i can only imagine what it’s at now.
when i had the civic i’d easily use a bottle in a weekend that was on a VERY small dry shot setup .
with the my current setup i get about 7 runs before the bottle is empty.
i’ve easily run through 25lbs in a weekend. ask the guys who run bigger shots how much they run through in a weekend.
There is a board member who would fill up two bottles at a time, every two days…
i used to run a 125 shot when i had my mustang. I enjoyed the extra gains at a fraction of the cost.
thats a lot of refills though, he seems like a casual driver, i can understand where your coming from with racing it every weekend, but most people just dont do that. nitrous is still about $4.75 a # around here, i can usually fill up for between $40 and $50. completely agree about 1k for a good setup, as i said earlier. so maybe 3,400 over 3 years if your a complete junky, like i said ive only spent about $400 or so on fill ups if that, and i spray pretty often, but im no junky. so overall last summer/fall and this spring ive spent around $1,400, prolly a little less (i get parts at cost, and usually get nitrous at cost) even if you do spend 3,400 thats still at least $1600 cheaper than a bolt on STS kit, or S/C and those are for basic kits, and will only be able to run about 5-7psi saftley, will need more fuel upgrades than a nitrous system and need more upgrades to up power (different pulley, turbo, s/c) vs free upping the jets.
The difference here is the application. The basic fundamentals are always going to be the same, but because of the increase in engine technology there is a need for more precision and specific customization in some newer engines. We know that an old carb’d iron chevy block is much different than a refined honda K20, and as a result the requirements to maximize that K20’s performance are also much more refined ( More than just running colder plugs and retarding the timing ).
Ive been using nitrous for many years.
If I were to start over from the begining, Id make the power NA, then a good turbo kit.
Granted the nitrous is very consistant and works everytime. - ex. look in sig. but when you really start playing with it, tuning with it, it gets expiensive fast. Its hard to explain because i was hooked and i still have the bottle. But id say get to the point where you dont need the bottle, but its there just incase. =]
i use mine as insurance.
we’re not talking about K20s here. I’ve sprayed a handful of “new, higher technology” motors with less then $1k worth of good. AFAIK they are all still running around WNY.
Nitrous is instant power at the flip of a switch. It tends to be harsh on the engine and drivetrain. It costs money to fill the bottle although the initial investment is cheap. In the long run you may see more of a cost in terms of engine, driveline wear and cost to refill bottle than say going forced induction of some sort. Either way it’s a power adder and should be respected as such and the consequences understood.
Nitrous is fun and it cools off your supercharger, very affective and a neat way to build quick power. I noticed quite a difference when I shot a direct shot into my supercharger with just a 50 shot. Worth the money all day.
I was just wondering… I am going to swap a b20 into my civic hatch. We are going to put a ls tranny, performance clutch, lightweight flywheel, msd upgrades to the ignition, and nitrous. I heard that a wet shot is better so I was going to go with that. So how big of a shot can my car handle? It will be a daily driver and I will open the bottle at the track.
I used to run a NX wet kit. Bought it new for stupid cheap, ran it for a couple of seasons with absolutely no problems, loved the “bang for buck”, sold it for more than I paid for it, and moved on to FI.
I see no problem with it. It’s not “cheating” - just a more cost effective, simple, power-adder.