If the car is 400hp and used as a DD/ weekend warrior, your not driving it with the pedal to the ground all the time. You learn to feather the gas. I’m sure you know what I’m talking about.
Not to mention, AWD helps a little with keeping traction.
PS: Great job STM!! Looks like another nice build!!!
actually for chris’s setup it would only cost 50-100 dollars for a solenoid, and what inconsistent piece of crap are you talking about, unless its an NLR then it doesn’t have the capabilites that a pwm controlled solenoid has with aem
100% sure they can not possibly spool a turbo faster than a ball and spring controller. Also I still have not seen an electronic controller that doesnt change from day to day. I personally will never use or sell one, I have seen to many of them come through the door not working.
-Em
You are correct, That selenoid is about 50-100 dollars for chris’s car. When it fails a new motor is about 5000 dollars.
I have used just about everything under the sun and will not ever again, use an electronic controller.
-Em
you make no sense
boost cut setup properly and a normally closed soleniod ensure this does not happen, if the solenoid fails it goes back to wg spring pressure
So an electronic selenoid can only fail when in one position?
And if you think hitting boost cut (miss fire) is safe then you have alot more to learn. Miss fires at hight horse/ RPMs can create havok on bearings.
ya hitting boost cut will save your motor, and a manual boost controller can fail just as easily, and you set the solenoid up as normally closed so that way IF it does fail, it won’t do any harm
boost cut is bad, but when set up with ignition cut is not really any worse then 2 step or anti lag
If your set up is working for you, Thats great! Im not here to change your mind or argue about it.
What we have on our cars works great and we plan on sticking with it. Its not because we have not used or tried your way, ITs because we did and did not like it.
-Em
and i said i understand for an all out drag car with slicks how traction is not a problem, but with a street driven car i don’t see how it can hurt in any way to have less boost down low for traction ( you yourself said traction was an issue), in any way i did not come in here to start problems, but since i know chris i thought that speed based boost would help him out on the street where he will be doing most of his driving
Car looked sick on the dyno!
i used to have your street car with out slicks. i had a set of $200 wanli 17" tires i bought off ebay ($250 shipped total for all 4). my car ran 11.34 on pump gas and street tires with the same trim/tune/everything as it did on the street. i ran a hallman MBC at 27 psi on a fp3065. i could pull consistent 1.7-1.8 60’ times on some of the cheapest tires known to man. Driver mod is a great thing to have along with having your car set up right in general (aka RPM launch limit, how much boost you are spooling off the line, suspenion set up, etc)
your arguments are retarded. electronic boost controllers suck. i would not want to worry about the solenoid sticking while im making a WOT pull and seeing my boost spike to 35-40 psi or somethign crazy. plus most EBC’s dont like to handle high PSI.
also, just FYI
(with a few exceptions you know who you are).can we ever just have a regular thread without someone bitching about something? go read some useful information about your cars rather than wasting your life fighting on this forum and then mabye you might have a car to keep up.
i just like the idea that more simple things often work better. if it works for you and FWD thats good. And yes AEM does put out some good products (i had their 5 bar boost gauge and WB)… i personally have never used their boost control devices but EBC’s such as the greddy i have read nothing but bad things about them. so yes, i have no personal experience with them because why would i want to spend $2-300 dollars on a EBC when i can get a hallman for $75.
for whatever its worth, ive used the same aem truboost controller on two different builds, both fwd tho, ha. its a pain in the ass at first but once you learn how its adjusted, its not bad. im pretty happy with it. to each their own i guess.
that evo looks/sounds!
its funny that you talked all shit about an ebc when you have absolutely no experience with one…
And I’d be willing to bet that both of them have gone faster and quicker than you have. Or probably ever will. :lol:
holy shitted up thread batman. Nice build and thats one sexy EVO. :tup:
ya i guess 500whp on pump gas in a 2,500 lb car wont run better than a 13 second 1/4
although i realize emery’s #'s are out of my range with my current #'s, but then again i never put down their cars or what they ran so what does my car have to do with it
alpha earl why do you feel the need to post about ebc’s in EVERY dyno thread that is posted? if it works for you cool, obviously everyone has their own preferences, so why keep trying to push yours on them? its getting rather old, and is just shitting up threads. why not make a thread in gen auto to create a discussion about ebc vs manual boost controllers, then you can go on and on as long as your heart desires
Because experience trumps all. If all the fast guys are saying some fancy part is junk and to use a cheap one…well, there’s probably a reason. Hell, if a shop owner is trying to NOT sell a $300 electronics part that probably has a killer markup on it, there’s probably a reason…
And I’m sure Orzech has gone much faster than a 13. He’s listed at 11.3 on roclife…