I believe the ABS lines have to be placed in a certain way (as close to
OEM as possible) in order to not trip the ABS sensor, perhaps due to
incorrect pressure in the lines?
If you have taken pics of your brake lines before installing, take a look to
see how things should go. Those brackets included in the D2 box are
included for a reason then.
I am glad its not just me that had the abs light go.
^^^
get off me,
i had 245 / 45 on before and it was fine, i tried 245 / 50 and it rubs under hard cornering or when there is too much weight in the car.
i am going back down, so no worries there.
G. i havent installed them yet, i have them measured out to equal positions, but of course that will change when they go in. i have a few days next week where i dont work, so i’ll use those days to do it all.
also have the touge factory spacers to go in and i am going to order some Azenis for up front in a 205 / 55 / 16, i know it’s thin, but i cant have my front wheels sticking out an inch from the fender like they would with my current set up, plus i dont want to run too much negative camber. i put too much mileage on the car to do stuff like that.
my buddy nate got his D2’s installed.
Justin, your drop looks awesome, but seriously, do something about those wheels…lol
haha I wish I could do something about the wheels but the turbo took all my money. Going to get falkens on them tonight. That’s the best I can do for now.
My fronts were rubbing in the wheel wells so I put it up 1/2" now only when I turn hard does it rub. I have to try fix the bumps on the fenders. I will see what happens when I get the lower pro falkens.
DONT RAISE UP URE CAR IF URE TIRES RUB DURING CORNERS ONLY.
JUST STIFFEN THE COILOVER SO THAT IT DOESNT ALLOW COMPRESSION DURING HARD CORNERS.
I think what he ment Bob was increase the preload.
But ya turn the knob clockwise six times 
Our D2s are 36-way adjustable.
So to find the maximum stiffness, put the dipstick in and turn it clockwise
all the way until it feels very hard (don’t over do it because it may damage
the damper). Once you have the stiffest point, take the stick out and put
it back in so the arrow now points to the #6 on the dial.
Now you have it on 100% stiffness. Since it’s 36-way adjustable, you will
make 6-full turns counter-clockwise, to get to 0% stiffness.
Do correct me if I’m wrong on this one.
They come from the factory on full Soft. (Fully Counter Clockwise)
So for full stiff turn them 6 full turns clockwise.
you don’t need to leave the stiks in do you? I found they made noies and took them one. I am running 4turns in the front and 3.5 in the back.
Justin change it up to 3 turns in the front and 4 in the rear with your spring rate.
Yeah take the adjusters out along with those stupid things that screw on top.
Overdamping —> Loss of contact with road
I am lost. So I wana run soft all the time? What if I had 7/5’s? (getting a set of 7’s) Aslo with the 6/5 why would you wana be soft?
With the 6/5 (springs) run 4/3 (dampener) and with the 7/5 (springs) run 3/3 (dampener)
Im just giving them a basis to work on for those people
who have never had the chance to tune their suspention.
I’m running full soft and ImmaGonnaKillAllUWangstaBoyz
Fear my MTB tuning skillz!
:twisted: Just keep thinking my rates are bad Berry boy :twisted:
Bah, Bob’s a Fruit :fruit:
Mike what spring rates did you get?
Well I finished my install. Rear is a piece of cake, to take out and adjust.
So is the front, but it takes a little longer, not to mention the difficulty
in trying to get the jack out after the car is lowered (clearance due to
swaybar interference).
A set of ramps will be needed for sure (unless someone has a better
alternative). Good thing I had my ghetto home-made ramp with me. :shock:
Not wanting any ABS warning light issues, I disconnected the battery when
doing the front coilovers. I’m not sure why 4-brackets are included seeing
as I only used two (one per side up front).
Either it was a coincidence two people got ABS warning light or they did
something wrong during install. Either ways, I didn’t get any ABS warning
light after doing my stuff. And I threw in a good reason to use zip-ties. Go me.
Here are some pictures for comparison on how I hooked up the brake lines:
BEFORE (driver side)
AFTER (passenger side - same deal as driver side)
(It was kind of late, and raining - pics from my back porch)
Anywho, still need to re-adjust the front to lower a little more. Damn this
is getting annoying - surely there has got to be a good way to know about
how much wheelgap will be once car/tires is on the ground. I measured
and adjusted accordingly but no dice when lowered. Back to it…
Redid my break lines like Gonad and now abs is working! Also found out that it’s my lower black front spoiler that is hitting the ground though hard turns, the wheel rubbing in the wheel well. I have melted the corners of it pretty good already.
Glad to hear things are good with the ABS situation Justin.
For the rear, I lowered the bottom mount all the way up as far as it can
go, and the end result was a 3/4" gap in the rear. Mind you I have
absolutely no gas in my tank (needle on the E) so I have a feeling it will
lower a little more with the weight.
The front has a 1" gap and it looks rather good but I’ll make it 3/4" as well. :twisted: