What causes a rear brake to drag, even if the hardware is clean, and lubed, and the caliper piston itself goes back in easily and smoothly?
I had a problem with the front Pass side dragging before, which seems to have been a lube issue that once corrected, has been alright.
I replaced the rear pads on Wednesday night, and it is dragging VERY badly. Everything was clean, and I lubed all contact points. The piston goes into the caliper smoothly and easily in the c-clamp.
Any ideas?
Caliper moves freely on it’s slides?
How does the ebrake work on your car? Possibily that is out of adjustment and not allowing the brake to release properly?
Caliper moved VERY freely.
E-brake works, and is a drum-in hub type. Can’t see that affecting the disc.
Oh, and it’s only the outer pad wearing, as was the case with it for some time, but it was never as sever as it currently is after replacing the pads.
I’d say ebrake is dragging, especially if it’s a seperate drum unit inside the rotor. If it’s not that, maybe the rubber hose has deteriorated(sp) on the inside and is blocking the line.
edit now that I think about it, the piston wouldn’t push back in if the hose was clogged so scratch that. But just in case, crack your bleeder. If fluid squirts out, it’s clogged. If it drips out like normal, it’s fine.
If it’s just the outer it really sounds like the caliper isn’t sliding properly to me.
If the piston was sticking or a fluid blockage issue it would keep pressure on both sides right?
Not ebrake if your ebrake is a drum in disc.
Assuming you’ve made sure the pad is seated properly in the caliper right?
Waiting for Carnut to weigh in.
I’d think the same about the caliper not sliding, but I made sure it slid well when I reassembled it. Before the piston clampe, you could move it side to side with your pinky finger.
And it is definitely the disc dragging.
The way they sliders are set-up on these cars suck, I had a dragging front brake. When the caliper was compressed it would tweak and catch therefore causing drag. I ended up making brass bushings to press into the bridge, the hole that the slider goes into. That solved the problems in the front.
I have never had to take the rears apart yet, so I am not much help there. Might want to check out www.sl-i.net for more helpful info on the legacys
Well, the rear is just a smaller version of the front basically. So I wonder if it’s the same idea.
The hardware is in perfect condition too. Very smooth, and clean.
As far as what you did though, do you have anymore info? I really do not think I am qualified enough to undertake something like fabricating a repair like that.
(Look at us Rutland/WNY folk bonding. 
)
I really don’t have any info on it, it was an off the cuff repair, had to make them work. and I have access to a machine shop at school. I just made the same dimensions as the slider and oversized the OD of bushing to press into the caliper and bridge.
Pic of a front caliper, I replaced the bushings that were in the circled parts.
In most cases:
The brake line turns into soft line in the wheel well, there is a clip that holds it on to frame somewhere, the clip is kinked and or rusted, and or you moved the caliper off the wheel and kinked it closed
happens a lot that I have seen
Hmmm, thanks. Definitely more than I could do myself, as I have no machine experience. Thanks for the info though, and I’ll dig around on SLI.net some as that is a new site to me.
Edit - Zwarbyt, I will absolutely check this out as well as it seems quite possible.
where about is Rutland are you, or should I say rutvegas? I was there last weekend.
That likely means the sliders are not sliding because of binding, clean the pins and the socket they fit into
I use never seez (graphite lube) to lube brake sliders, because it withstands temps to 1800 degrees F and is water resistant, wheel bearing grease is garbage and not water resistant
did you put a new rotor on after the origonal uneven wear?