me too lol 
thanks!
well if the tranny is shot you could buy the parts you need and pay half the labor to have a friend rebuild it in tranny class this semester :COUGH: :COUGH:
Lol, i’ll let you know cough cough
Was it making any noises with the clutch out before? Like it would go away when you push the clutch in? Could be the TOB or clutch fork. I never heard of this if it were the linkage. Take a look at the linkage anyway. And see if you change gears from under the hood.
My car lost 3rd gear and acted the same way.
the car wouldnt run unless the clutch was engaged after this happened, so i really don’t know lol
edit: didnt really have any symptoms described here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/183563-bad-throwout-bearing-symptoms.html
but i honestly don’t remember… the car wont run unless the clutch is engaged though
Sounds like what happened to my Shep tranny. Popped out of third while on the 990. After that no more third. I tried to limp it home shifting from first to second to fourth to fifth until a really loud whining noise started coming from the tranny. Gary and Don were like “Ewww” when they heard it.
I’d say it’s probably the axle. They do funny things when they start to go.
I have a ACT sprung 6 puck for sale if your interested. It has a 2600 lb pressure plate with it. Gary can vouch for it. It still has lots of life left in it and should take whatever you throw at it, unless your over 400whp.
Ahh that feeling sucks. My 3rd gear left a nice whole in the bell housing.
Right now my car has the 2100… so i will let you know
if it is the axle that would be fucking fantastic lol
the axle was clicking while turning, so i definately know it needs a new one and thats top on my list of things to fix
it pretty much sounds like exactly what happned to your car, was it infact the axle?
His was just the tranny ate itself.
great lol
Get it checked out. You know the life of a dsmer.
It’s at garys now, i havent talked to him since the car got dropped off thursday and i havent really told him what happened… i dont need the car back now, so whenever it gets fixed it gets fixed.(As long as it’s before may lol) it’s the holiday weekend … not a big deal
Yeah the wobbling I think would probably be the axle.
What you described with the tranny sounds like a major tranny issue. I’ve had my fair share.
Take a look at Jacks trans and TRE if your shopping for a new one. Shep isn’t the only reputable DSM tranny builder these days. Both of those other places do great work as well.
TRE takes cores in too. Might bring your price down a little bit. I have two I gotta send to him one of these days.
If your planning to build your car up, i’d get a built tranny. Or even if you want to get one built just for the future. Besides a TRE build is pretty fair price wise, rather then getting a stock rebuild for a bit less or more.
With TRE i think they have better customer service, the rep will go over everything with you, and help you in toward the right direction not just to spend money with them.
Not a sales rep really. John Ripple. The owner of TRE and the one who builds all the trannys. He will talk your ear off for an hour if you don’t watch out!
well this is some pretty great info i found, if you care to read it:
[quote=]
Well, speaking from experience, I had the best results with the DSM AWD transmission up to 350-400whp/350tq before anything past that would find a way to fail. My last setup put down 766AWHP/~700TQ at all 4 wheels. The new setup is going to be around 900AWHP (that is the goal) conservatively on the S374R. I am still expecting near 650-725TQ at the wheels.
I am now on my 16th transmission (15 of them being a wide range of fully built transmissions over the years 2003-2008). I have been building them now for the last 2 years with good learning experiences.
There are several weaknesses in the DSM transmission; the main ones are the following:
*Gear face size, shaft size, etc.
*Center differential
*3rd/4th gearset and 3/4 hub and slider assembly (late 91-early 92 is the best).
*Input shaft and 1st gear.
With these flaws in mind, the first thing would be to run a straight-cut dogbox gearset to take care of the gears. The next is to run a welded center diff, a spool, or a 4-post Chromoly 4-spider gear center differential (NOT a machined down cross shaft – there is also the necessity for better oiling to the spider gears, so oiling grooves in the chromoly cross shaft is key). If you are going to be banging gears (with a dogbox), then the chromoly shift forks should be used, but if you are running a helical transmission, it is in your best interests to properly, softly shift the gears using the aluminum shift forks as they will put less wear on the hub and sliders.
If you are on a real-world budget, then the most important things would be to use a new Input shaft (and corresponding 1st gear), Intermediate shaft, and 3rd/4th gear assembly. All of these parts should be deburred and detailed to remove all rough/sharp edges. As well, surface treatments such as cryo-treatment (helps with having more structurally uniform material and surfaces along wih deburring/detailing a gearset), REM polishing (reduces friction and stress on a deburred shaft/gearset), and shot-peening (helps with strength and oiling surface adhesion) are all useful treatments to help increase longevity, reduce wear, and increase oiling surface adhesion/lubrication.
A quality center differential should be used – a well-built 4-spider center diff with an upgraded cross shaft and a machined cover with Torrington bearing modification can handle quite a bit of abuse and live. I have had machined stock cross-shafts, BM transmission cross-shafts, Speed-design cross-shafts, and Beyond Redline Chromoly cross-shafts in my transmissions over the years. The best one for my power
levels that has survived with minimal wear characteristics has been the Beyond Redline hardened chromoly cross-shaft with machined oiling grooves. This one has lasted the last 6 transmissions and looks great everytime I inspect it – I have not broken one of these to this day, whereas I have shattered the other ones tested over the years.
The late 91-early 92 3rd/4th gears and hub/slider assembly is the strongest OEM part for our transmissions, along with its corresponding 3/4 shift fork and 3/4 shift rail (having it milled to accept a second roll pin to properly hold the 3/4 shift fork better and preventing it from snapping off its lower mounting point under hard shifting). If you are using a late 92-1999 3rd/4th gearset, you WILL eventually shatter your 3rd/4th hub/slider assembly either through imploding the hub, or shattering the slider – they are just too thin and weak to handle anything over 350tq reliably. Sure, it may have better/bigger synchros, but it is extremely fragile. The late 91-early 92 conversion is the way to go – it is also the same hub and slider that is used with the Evo 3 3rd and 4th gearset, along with taking the same springs and keys for the hub/slider assembly. Jon at TRE does use better spring steel for the hub/slider springs that helps in preventing the springs from failing, and are worth the additional cost as the springs are necessary parts. Also, the Evo 3 3rd/4th gears do come heat-treated (like all the mitsu gears) AND shot-peened from the factory. The Evo 3 1st gear/input shaft is NOT shot-peened from the factory, so it is a good option to add, including deburring/detailing. I also like to use REM or cryotreatment on the 3rd/4th hub and slider as this part can see a heck of alot of heat and load on a high-power car. I still regularly burn out a 3/4 hub and slider on the dyno, resulting in destroying the slider and the 3/4 shift fork == it will get overheated and cause shifting problems. Oiling is key, so the less friction, and the more oiling adhesion is extremely important for this key part. The 3rd and 4th gears also are small, and have a tendency of shearing all the teeth off past 450+TQ; The last one that I exploded lasted the longest with cryo-treatment and deburring/detailing of the gears and the intermediate shaft, but still exploded around 700TQ at the wheels on the dyno.
Next, the 1991-1999 intermediate shaft does have better oiling passages than the 1990-early 1991 shaft. Just know that it is not directly interchangable with 1990 shafts in the 1990 transmissions, as it uses a different gear pitch and gear tooth root thickness. You must use a corresponding input shaft and gears (91-99 DSM OR Evo 3 parts are interchangable with the corresponding hub/slider/rail/fork assembly). The intermediate shaft is still weak, though it may be the beefiest shaft in your transmission, it has a very small gearface for the 3rd and 4th gears, so it is imperative that you properly debur/detail the shaft, and use some sort of beneficial surface hardening/treatment. It is very common to shear the teeth off the 3rd gear face of the intermediate shaft, as it sees all the load, all of the time, since it shares the drive force with the center differential/output shaft/etc. I have had the best luck with deburring/detailing and cryo-treatment in conjunction, but I am going to try shot-peening on the next one as it will help in keeping a bit more oiling adhesion on the shaft. If you are making serious torque numbers, this should be a required replacement part when doing a transmission buildup.
The input shaft is strong enough for most setups – EXCEPT when running a GVR4 input shaft/1st gear – I have popped these with less than 400whp/360tq, shearing the 1st gear teeth to oblivion. If you want a taller-than-stock 1st gear, go with an Evo 3 1st gear and input shaft. It is also imperative that you keep an eye on the shaft for runout (making sure that the shaft is not bent), and that the shaft splines are perfectly straight with NO wear (if possible, use no grease on the shaft splines for the clutch; it will only cause a wear surface; use only a tiny, tiny bit of synthetic high-temp grease on the splines of the clutch disk if you are using a single-disk setup; use NONE if you are running a multi-disk clutch). I have bent input shafts around 600+whp, and I have twisted the splines completely on my input shaft with my last twin-disk at 700TQ at the wheels (it also sheared the splines off of both my QM clutch disks). Shot-peening and cryo-treatment for the input shaft is definitely beneficial.
One of the most important things for these transmissions is properly shimming the gearshafts (center diff, output shaft, input shaft, intermediate shaft and front differential. With the front diff, follow the specs since they are standard roller bearings, it doesn’t need preload. I usually have the output shaft at specs for preload, and slightly more on the center diff than spec, and then more preload than stock on the input shaft and intermediate shaft. From the forces going on inside your transmission under load, it makes your input shaft and intermediate shaft want to thrust away from each other. As well, once the transmission heats up, the aluminum case will expand. So, this is the reason for increased preloads on the two main shafts, so that it will keep its preload under high temperatures and high load without allowing the shafts to separate. This is usually the key reason for gear failure.
Personally, if you are intending on making crazy torque, you better know how to make your vehicle respond smoothly – slicks, good center diff, twin-disk clutch, good motor mounts and axles, along with utilizing a hand brake or e-brake to properly pre-load the vehicle to launch it without causing shockloads on the transmission. I also use Redline Lightweight Shockproof in my transmission, and regularly flush it (or fully disassemble the transmission regularly for rebuilding/refreshing/cleaning oiling passages, etc.).
Finally, if you want a transmission that is going to last, then you are either going to have to pony up for an IPT race transmission, or a race-transmission. At extremely high power levels, I would only recommend a dogbox or an IPT automatic.
See, I am crazy for the fact that I still run a 5-speed helical transmission with modifications at my power levels. They will not last long – it is just a matter of design. They were only designed to handle around 200-400TQ before failing based on which parts you use. Anything past that level, you are playing with a hand grenade that doesn’t have a safety pin in it. It WILL fail sooner or later. Your driving characteristics and power levels will be the deciding factors in how long it lives before it dies.
If you don’t like what I have to say about transmissions, or my experiences, fine. Go and buy a Supra or a T56 transmission car with a Viper output shaft. Both of these transmissions are beefy and can handle nearly everything you want to throw at it without failing. If you cannot afford to be replacing/rebuilding transmissions regularly, then I would suggest staying under 400whp/400tq. Your driveline will like you a whole lot more![/quote]
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=211357&page=3
Some really good info
welcome to dsm hell my friend mine recently thought it would be sweet if it started knocking. As far as the problems your having dont sweat it Gary will fix it you will cause your self more headaches dealing with stupid shit your self. but if it is infact the tranny dont back peddle if your doing a a high hp build get a built trans either shep tre or jack transmissions all reputable and get rid of that 2100 I also have a 2600 I might sell 
jesus christ.
i drove that daily for a year 1/2.broke down once,and that was my fault.
im sorry!!
bring it by child. Ive got a spot for her
What happened, damn this 1g was supposed to be good.