on the way home from winged wariors in indiana I was at WOT on a on ramp and when it came time to shift into third it went straight to neutral. so i imediatly let off the gas it shifted into 4th.
here are the symptoms.
from a stop I have first gear and it clamps properly with no slipage at all it shifts just like it always has into second (which is good) and it clamps second properly with no slipage. but when it comes time to go into third it acts lilke neutral. even when I am super carefull to see if it grabs at all to see if it is sliping and it is not slipping at all it just isn’t engauging at all then i will manualy ask for second and it will go into second properly and speed up to about 40mph and let off the gas completely so it shifts into 4th then i can drive like nothing ever happened. I just can’t use 3rd gear because it is in neutral.
so my theory is when I was at my WOT pull the rear bank exhaust pipe might have overheated one of the accumulators and melted one of the o-ring seals for it. or at least that is what i’m hoping for because it is about all i can do to it without dropping the tranny.
also when i’m in first gear and let off the gas it will drop down to idle instantle instead of engine braking like it is soposed to. but when you give it gas again it will engauge at teh correct rpm and continue business as usual.
the fluid color is excelent! and smells exactly like the new bottles i have. so i definately didn’t cook any of the clutches and there is no noises or anything.
so all of that typing to ask this. which acumulator controlls 3rd gear? the driver side or passanger side? i need some help here please i want to go boosting around again.
weve abused the living fuck out of this tranny for over 10k miles
a stock vesion of this tranny wouldnt have lived for one burnout behind this engine, one brake torquing would have blown it up
this tranny has taken multiple passes thru the burnout box, and many many many brake torqeings, both at the strip and on the highway
its also seen about a dozen 17 psi runs … which is someplace north of 500 wheel hp …
and despite being “broken” the tranny fluid is still spotless, its just that alex has another nuetral at the moment
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I just remember standing in Alex’s driveway and you under the car working on it and Alex was like "I pay 5000 for the tranny it better be unbrakeable. LOL its just funny but sucks for him.
That sucks…I had a similiar problem. I just got done replacing my flex plate. I cracked it pretty good around the bolts that bolt the flex to the crank. But, the rest is still “unbreakable”. Thing with anything built…it’ll find that weak link. Good luck and hope u have it runnin good again soon
LOL, I know what I did…I heard it break. I got on it from a stop, saw a cop, let off…and the trans BANGED haaard into 2nd with my foot off the gas.-(line pressure is high, plus springs/shims for shift accum.) When I heard it bang like that I was like, “ooo, I bet I cracked the flex.” Sure enough, when I got out to a 55zone I could hear it fuggin vibrating.
OH well…I got lots of 3800 spare parts in my garage. Some people have seen the pics;)
LOL, I know what I did…I heard it break. I got on it from a stop, saw a cop, let off…and the trans BANGED haaard into 2nd with my foot off the gas.-(line pressure is high, plus springs/shims for shift accum.) When I heard it bang like that I was like, “ooo, I bet I cracked the flex.” Sure enough, when I got out to a 55zone I could hear it fuggin vibrating.
OH well…I got lots of 3800 spare parts in my garage. Some people have seen the pics;)
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that is the same shift that broke my engine mount i think. that full line pressure off throttle shift is brutal.
since day one the mount has had a steel cable on it to limit movement, so the engine doesnt realy move far, but it still had more movement then the mount could handle
no it is definately a internal failure. i’ll post the video eventually of the failure.
FPS said he would do the repair at actual time on labor instead of book, 15% over cost on parts and shipping.
i would guess it will be about 1500 bucks for the repair + shipping so probably about 2K + i want him to add a LSD so +800 bucks and I am debating on weither on not i should change the gearing./ my options are.
3.19 (from a 3.8 taurus)
3.74 (stock)
3.99 (from a 3.0 windstar)
the gear ration is altered by changing the sprocket size for the chain before any of the gears or clutches so essentialy by going to the 3.19 ratio i would be lessening the stress on the transmission. so to counteract that i would get heads and cams. also i think i would be back to completing the 1/4 mile in second gear.
I know the turbo setup his a whole different monster but, I have 3.29’s in my transmission and I like it alot more than the stock 2.93s. I also bought a 2750 stall as well. (in hind sight, I would have gone 3000) From what some other GP owners that have 3.69 gears have told me…1st gear is usless, and a 3-1 downshift is useless as well. Its too much tq. multiplication causeing for even worse problems with FWD traction.
BUT, maybe with a turbo it would help to spool up faster or maybe make up for some lag…if you even have lag.:gotme:
^^ the fact that its even trying to shift into 3rd shows that the tweecer is working, if it was a tweecer malfunction it either wouldnt shift at all, or would just try to hold a gear out forever
im thinking maybe the TCU might have fried from underhood temps ?
and 17 psi was never done at the track, the 12.957 @ 108 was done on 12psi on a warm day, the 17 psi runs were done on the street on cold days, and never intentionaly
the boost has been set at 9psi for street driving, and thats the boost we used to run all the 1/4 mile pulls, except for the 12.957
just under 2 tons. we never ran the 1/4 with 17psi nick wanted to but i wouldent let him. at 12.5psi we ran 12.9X @108 i don’t think it is 500whp although a guy on shoform with a completely stock 3.0 (i have a 3.2) made 430whp with a I/C sprayer on 13psi.
another member in NC made
Run #1 404.4 HP / 391 ft lbs torque
Run #2 401.5 HP / 390.3 ft lbs torque
with these mods on 10psi
GT 42 turbo, 38 lb injectors, FMU, Apexi SAFCII,STOCK ENGINE INTERNALS, underdrive pulleys, fidanza flywheel, Racing clutch. thats it.
-ashley-
my intake is a lot less restrictive than both of those cars so i really don’t know what kind of powr i’m making. probably over 350whp… but who knows i have a few miles on this engine.
