things that i have been told:
‘when you slow down the tires skid’
‘you over steer a lot more’
‘be careful in the rain’
‘you have to rev it really high to get the car moving’
I just want to know out of experience of people with welded diffs or people who have driven them what they think of these comments i have been getting. I am welded the diff no matter what but are these statements true…especially the tires skidding ans reving the car more?
dont forget these things
“your outter wheel hops going around corner” True
“U will wear out tires very quickly due to wheel hop” also true
so is it worth then ?..i just wanna have fun…at the track that is 
For daily driving, it’s not really very practical at all, but if it’s a track dedicated car, go for it. It’s a nice cheap alternative to a 2-way LSD.
totally worth it, its the only way ill roll
have you ever had a welded diff in your car?
its totally fine on the street
i don’t have experience with 240s and welded diffs, but from experience with other cars its not bad on the street, just when turning sharply you will chirp the inside tire, especially in reverse it seems. and it is easier to kick out to the rear with a welded diff vs. open or lsd. i have heard that a welded diff will explode eventually, but i haven’t seen this in person, though i have seen a 1g dsm with a welded rear make a breaking sound from the rear end then just act like an open diff, that was odd.
whoever told you that “when you slow down the tires skid” and “you have to rev it really high to get the car moving” is on glue.
hope that helps.
Welded is fine, if you’re not a Nancy boy.
But it’s not a drift button.
The Celica is welded, and it hasn’t killed me yet. And if that puny 6.7" diff can take the shellacking I threw at it, I don’t expect it to break anytime soon.
It WILL cause you to understeer, especially when going slow. If you break the rear end free, yes, it will drift. Until you break the tires free, it will understeer like a mofo.
Snow, rain, anything of the sort, just makes this worse.
If you slow down while trying to turn, yes, the back end will hop.
And the revving it up part … not on glue, but yeah it happens. Because you’re sending power to both wheels, and both wheels grip, you need to apply more power to get moving without stalling. Rev it higher? No, not really, you just need better foot control.
Doesn’t tank slap like an open diff, but it will make you do a 360º pretty easily.
avery dude you influence me so much to work on my car finally and get on the track…love the build up budget drift car and love the feed back your givin me…straight forward to the point right on dude.
to everyone else thanks a lot great help and good info…i have searched on google about welding diffs and everyone is like “no dont do it” but meh what do they know.
i rocked a welded in my old car
i mean yea a 2 way is better but welded is almost the same and :
A- no need for expensive fluid changes after every event
B- no initial investment of $1000
yea you got to be careful in rain and snow etc since its alot more aggressive than a oem diff but, if your up for sliding its prime.
there are a few other on son that rock welded diffs
dip, pavel, canadiandrifter240sx etc
P.S. clearly one is going in the new drifter
i heard for 2way/weld, the back comes out more predictable compared to a vlsd.
Yeah, an old worn out vlsd is kinda crappy cause you never know when they are gunna come out and play or when they are gunna just sit around and watch the tires spin every which way…
with welded you know exactly what is going to happen, even when you might not want it to happen too though heh…
Clutch type LSD is the best of both worlds. It’ll be solid when you are into the power and not so solid when you are cornering at 130 in the rain on the highway.
this is the reason that i wouldn’t want to run a welded diff on a street car. situation like this would get ugly… or possibly very fun, but probably ugly.
Fun, then scary, then ugly.
I dont think so man. With an open diff the same power is still going to both wheels if your going straight unless you break one wheel loose. The welded diff will act the same way unless your trying to move while turning your car like from a parking space becuase the same power is going to the wheels but one wants to spin faster than the other so its resisting.
Come drive my car.
Better yet, go and try and push a car with an LSD/welded diff. It takes a lot more effort to get them moving than an open diff car, whether you’re turning or not.
With an open diff, you can spin both tires in a straight, as long as there is no load. Otherwise you would be able to do a 2-wheel burnout with a peg-leg.
I drove the car before with an open diff, and plenty of track time with it welded. As soon as you weld your diff, it will feel like you just lost 15 hp. And … well, you just did.
AS long as there is no load? :S like what on an ice rink?
If you load up an open diff, it will only spin one tire.
Like I said before - doing a burnout, you are going in a straight line. But somehow, only one tire spins, unless you have an LSD or welded diff.
Power follows the path of least resistance. An open diff can spin both wheels, but not with a load. Once you load it, you’re going to be spinning one tire only.
If an axle is moving (ie the car is moving forward) the power will STILL follow the path of least resistance, which is the tire that is moving, not the tire that is sitting still. It takes a fair bit of force to get a car moving from rest.
Now you have to overcome the resistance of both wheels (they are welded together), so you have to apply more force.
If you need a more visual lesson, come down to the shop, and you can push a bunch of my cars around - open, LSD and welded. You can even make motor sounds while you do it.
Whether it’s you pushing it, or the motor, the amount of work required remains the same.