As many of you saw in my previous post for winter projects. I have decided to go a totally different route for my engine/transmission setup. After talking to a person at Level10, it is way cheaper and more effective to get the manual transmission swap and rebuild then engine from there. Level10 wanted 3,200 dollars for a bulletproof transmission, which I can complete the auto/manual swap and get my engine built for aroud that. After discussing with FaithOfADragon from RD, he suggested the following:
Copper Headgasket
Block:
overbore
vac cleaning
magnaflux
checking the deck
deburring
red glyphol
Pistons:
Wiseco forged low compression
Stock Rods:
Shotpeened
Head:
Porting/Polish
Cams
New springs/retainers
Polish valves.
Manual Transmisison Swap:
Clutch
Flywheel
I am asking the forum members for other suggestions and their opinions. I am shooting for around 300 horsepower, which the T28 can handle, and I think I will be able to accomplish with this setup.
It will be an interesting setup to say the least. I am just not sure I would be happy spending that chunk of change for only 300hp. what are you going to do for fuel management? why not go to a bigger turbo?
For fuel management I will be using the SMT along with the dual rail kit. I plan on seeing what the T28 can do, then I plan on bumping it up. The T28 reaches maximum efficiency at 23psi from what I’m told.
I think the transmission deal is WAY too much, and something it doesn’t sound like you need. Seriously, with a good clutch and inteligent shifting, it should be fine. at best, i’d say keep a set of spare axles laying around.
The motor sounds like nothing special is going on. Any machine shop should do all of that ANYWAYS. I would NOT bore unless the cylinders are out of round. you want as much material in that block as possible to hold it together. Boring will only potentially weaken it, and if you scratch a wall and need it bored again, then its going to be that much thinner.
I have mixed feelings over shotpeening. I would try to get forged rods if you are that worried about it. There HAS to be forged rods out there.
Be causious on the cam choice. Make sure its profile is turbo friendly. If its on the big side, get cam gears to at least dial out some overlap.
I am sure SMT would be fine, but it just seems for everything you are doing why not go to a standalone system? You would have so much more control on whats going on with your engine, and it gives you room to grow as i am sure you want to grow.
The manual swap for my car with used parts is 700 shipped, along with some engine work, I will go from there. I CAN get forged rods, but really don’t want to spend another 800 dollars on rods. Stock rods from what I have read up can handle 400whp, along with the crank. I’m going to be going down to talk to Rodeheaver’s on Saturday to see what he says.
I’ve been considering going standalone. The main problem between the SMT and the dual rail is timing. The dual rail makes the SMT lose its ability to control it. But there is a “black box” that works around this. It’s coming out soon, and I am going to be working with the Canadian Perfect Power dealer to test for him.
if you can’t control the timing, then just go MSD BTM. boom, done.
and I could probably get a tranny, pedals, clutch master cyl., lines, slave for way less than 700. Even if you did that, 3200-700 is 2500 left you can do it right with!!
Another route I may be taking if I decide not to build my engine is this:
Fully built engine, talked him down to 2,100 for the following:
2.0L Fully b\Built Motor
-Wiseco pistons
-Pauter rods
-port/polished head
-balanced, clearanced, deburred, trued, cleaned, etc
-perfect for a highly tuned turbo setup.
-this block is fully built by CGM motorsports
I dunno you might want to think about getting your tranny built. I have seen many Hyundia 2.0 trannys blow the cases apart. I have some nasty pics ill have to throw up some time.
Talked to Rodheavers yesterday. It seems like I will be able to get more from him for some more money. Here what he broke it down too:
Balance-150.00
Shotpeen and Polish Rods-75.00
Bore and Hone-120.00
Magnaflux Block and Crank-120.00
Debur Block-75.00
Knife Edge Crank-50.00
Port and Polish Head, Polish Valves-300.00
Check Decks, Debur if Needed-150.00
Clean and Assembly-400.00
Blueprinting-150.00
Total-1,650.00
I would need to provide new springs and retainers, crank bearings, flywheel, gaskets, and pistons.
I’m pretty confident I am going to go this way. The work seems great for a reasonable price. So, just need to decide from here. Thought’s?
