F-body clutch issues

Background: Towards the end of last year my clutch fluid was going somewhere. Obviously the master or slave cylinder was leaking. I noticed this when my clutch pedal was getting soft and it didn’t want to go into gear. I checked the fluid and sure enough it was low and there was a clump of gray muck in the resivoir. I cleaned it out and topped the fluid out and it got better, but i had to top it off every week or so. I didn’t worry about it because it was going into storage so I didn’t worry about it.

FFWD to today: I started the car to pull it out of storage and to no surprise the clutch was gone. Pedal to the floor. So I filled the resivoir and pumped the clutch hoping to prime it so that it would disengage but nope. Apparently the system is dry and it won’t prime. Is there an easy way to fill the master cylinder so I can atleast move the car to take it to the shop to get this fixed or am I going to have it towed?

The old two person bleeding method probably works, one person works the pedal, one person opens the bleeder fitting, if GM was smart enough to put one in the system

I’m kinda new to the car and haven’t done a whole lot of work on it yet. Anyone know where the bleeder is on these?

on the side of the bellhousing, in the square hole right above the braided hyd. line

get a 1/4 non ratching, beaker bar style.

With a 11mm or 7/16 socket

Even if your keeping the car stock put good parts in the clutch, adjustable master I say is a must even with a Gm clutch so you can set it to fully disengage. Kills alot of good t56s, people driving on them with the clutch dragging from not keeping up on the LS1 hydraulics. And keeps the pedal at a functioning position as the clutch wears, and to make up for different tolerances you get in the parts out there right now. GM, aftermarket, stock replacement.

If you need any parts let me know, new era stocks clutchs, slaves, and adjustable master, I think there some remote bleeders I saw on the shelf too?